Evaluation of Proposed Skincare Formulas for Aging, Brightening, and Texture

ถามโดย: phanjarosej เมื่อ: March 29, 2020 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I have combination skin that is sometimes dry and rough, oily in hot weather, and dehydrated. I am 56 years old with wrinkles, loss of firmness, large pores, and noticeable dark spots, melasma, and freckles. I want my skin to look brighter and less dull.

I have two proposed formulas and would like to inquire before ordering production to see if they are viable. Are there too many ingredients? Will they be removed if I order production?

Cream for Firming and Wrinkle Reduction

  • Ectoine --------------------------------------------------- 2%
  • Repair Activator --------------------------------------- 10%
  • beta glucan ---------------------------------------------- 5%
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid -------------------------------- 6%
  • Moist 72 ---------------------------------------------------- 2%
  • Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq. Matrixyl 3000) ----------- 5%
  • Argireline --------------------------------------------------- 10%
  • Wrinkle Lax ----------------------------------------------- 0.5%
  • Wrinkle Fill ------------------------------------------------ 2%
  • Adenosine Liposome ------------------------------------- 5%
  • Laurocapram (water Soluble)-------------------------- 3%
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)---------- 1%
  • Water ---------------------------------------------------------- 47%
  • Satin Cream Maker™ ----------------------------------- 1.5%

The texture is intended to be like Neutrogena Hydro Boost gel.

Lotion for Reducing Dullness, Dark Spots, Redness, and Melasma/Freckles (for someone without major wrinkles but with large pores, rough skin, and minor wrinkles)

  • beta glucan ---------------------------------------------- 5%
  • Activated Resorcinol™ ------------------------------- 1%
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)- ----------- 5%
  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine)-------------- 4%
  • Wrinkle Lax ----------------------------------------------- 0.5%
  • Wrinkle Fill ------------------------------------------------ 2%
  • Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)---------- 1%
  • Satin Cream Maker™ ------------------------------------ 1%
  • LipidSoft™ Moist ------------------------------------------ 5%
  • Water ---------------------------------------------------------- 75.5%

คำตอบ

Evaluation of Your Proposed Formulations

You have combination skin with dryness, dehydration, oiliness in heat, wrinkles, loss of firmness, large pores, and pigmentation. You are looking for formulations to address these issues and achieve brighter skin.

Cream for Firming and Wrinkle Reduction

Your proposed cream formula contains a comprehensive list of ingredients targeting aging, firmness, and hydration.

  • Beneficial Ingredients: The formula includes several peptides known for their anti-aging effects, such as Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, Wrinkle Lax, and Wrinkle Fill. These work through different mechanisms to help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve firmness. Hydrating ingredients like Double Hyaluron Liquid, Moist 72, and Beta Glucan are excellent for addressing dryness and dehydration. Ectoine provides protection and helps repair the skin barrier, which is beneficial for combination and potentially sensitive skin. Laurocapram is included as a penetration enhancer to help deliver the water-soluble actives. Mild Preserved Eco is a gentle, preservative-free option. Satin Cream Maker is a suitable emulsifier for creating a cream texture.
  • Ingredient Count and Concentration: This formula has a very high number of active ingredients, and the total percentage of actives is quite high. While many of these ingredients are beneficial, combining so many potent actives at high concentrations can increase the complexity of the formulation and potentially increase the risk of skin sensitivity or irritation, especially for combination skin that can fluctuate in condition.
  • Specific Concern - Adenosine Liposome: You listed "Adenosine Liposome 5%". Based on the products available, there isn't a product specifically named "Adenosine Liposome" at a 5% recommended usage rate. We found "Pure-Adenosine" (recommended usage 0.1-1%) and "Ceracare Liposome-3" (a ceramide liposome complex, recommended usage 0.1-3%). The 5% concentration you proposed is significantly higher than the recommended rates for these related products. This ingredient and its concentration would need clarification or adjustment during the production process to ensure stability and safety based on the actual product used.
  • Production Feasibility: While the combination of ingredients targets your concerns, the high number and concentration of actives, particularly the issue with "Adenosine Liposome," mean this formula is complex. A manufacturer would need to perform thorough stability and compatibility testing. It is possible that adjustments to concentrations or even simplification of the formula might be recommended or necessary to ensure a stable and effective final product. Ingredients might be adjusted based on compatibility and the manufacturer's expertise, but they wouldn't typically be cut out arbitrarily if they are stable and safe at the intended concentration.

Lotion for Brightening and Texture

Your proposed lotion formula focuses on brightening and improving skin texture, while also addressing minor wrinkles.

  • Beneficial Ingredients: This formula features a strong combination of brightening agents: Activated Resorcinol, Safe-B3 (Niacinamide), and GlucoBright (Acetyl Glucosamine). These ingredients work synergistically to target dark spots, melasma, freckles, and dullness, promoting a more radiant complexion. Safe-B3 and GlucoBright also offer benefits for pores and texture. Beta Glucan provides soothing and anti-irritant properties, which is helpful when using potent brightening actives. Wrinkle Lax and Wrinkle Fill are included for addressing minor wrinkles and improving firmness/texture. LipidSoft Moist adds hydration without feeling heavy. Mild Preserved Eco is a gentle preservative.
  • Ingredient Count and Concentration: This formula also contains multiple active ingredients, but the concentrations are generally within the recommended ranges for each ingredient. The combination of brightening actives is well-supported by research for synergistic effects.
  • Texture: You mentioned wanting a lotion texture similar to Neutrogena Hydro Boost gel. You've used Satin Cream Maker at 1%. While Satin Cream Maker can create different textures depending on the overall formula and oil phase, 1% is on the lower end for a typical cream and might result in a lighter texture, potentially a light cream or thick lotion. Achieving a specific gel-like texture might require adjusting the thickener/emulsifier system.
  • Production Feasibility: This formula is less complex than the cream and the ingredient concentrations are generally within standard ranges. It is more likely that this formula could be produced as proposed, subject to standard stability and compatibility testing. Adjustments might be needed to achieve the desired texture (lotion vs. light cream), but major ingredients are less likely to be removed unless specific incompatibilities are found during testing.

Conclusion

Both formulations are thoughtfully designed to address your skin concerns using effective active ingredients.

  • The Cream formula is very comprehensive for anti-aging but is quite complex with a high active load. The "Adenosine Liposome 5%" ingredient needs clarification as the proposed concentration does not match available product data for similar ingredients. This formula is more likely to require adjustments during production for stability and manufacturability.
  • The Lotion formula is a strong blend for brightening and improving texture, with concentrations generally within recommended ranges. It is less complex than the cream and more likely to be produced as proposed, though texture adjustments might be needed.

It is highly recommended to work closely with the manufacturer and perform full stability and compatibility testing on both formulas before proceeding with large-scale production. This will ensure the final products are safe, stable, effective, and have the desired texture.

Regarding ingredients being "cut out," manufacturers prioritize safety, stability, and efficacy. If an ingredient at a certain concentration compromises these factors or makes production difficult, they will recommend changes. The high complexity and the specific issue with "Adenosine Liposome 5%" in the cream make it more probable that adjustments would be suggested for that formula compared to the lotion.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract)
Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract)
เครื่องสำอาง
Satin Cream Maker™
Satin Cream Maker™
เครื่องสำอาง
MOIST72™
MOIST72™
เครื่องสำอาง
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Double Hyaluron Liquid
เครื่องสำอาง
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
เครื่องสำอาง
Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
Activated Resorcinol™ (4-Butyl Resorcinol)
เครื่องสำอาง
LipidSoft™ Moist (Triethylhexanoin)
LipidSoft™ Moist (Triethylhexanoin)
เครื่องสำอาง
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
เครื่องสำอาง
Wrinkle-Lax™ คลายริ้วรอย
Wrinkle-Lax™ คลายริ้วรอย
เครื่องสำอาง
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
เครื่องสำอาง
Laurocapram (Water Soluble)
Laurocapram (Water Soluble)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pure-Adenosine™
Pure-Adenosine™
เครื่องสำอาง