Formula Review and Texture Improvement Tips

Thank you for providing your face cream formula for review. Your formula includes:

• Grape Seed Oil (Refined) - 15%
• Palmaria Palmata Extract - 2%
• Vitamin C Ester (Ascorbyl Palmitate) - 2%
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) - 4%
• Activated Resorcinol™ - 1%
• Light Cream Maker™ - 1.5%
• Mild Preserved Eco™ - 1%
• Fragrance - 1.5%
• Water - up to 100%

You mentioned that the cream feels sticky and doesn't absorb well after testing. This is likely due to the relatively high percentage of the oil phase, particularly the 15% Grape Seed Oil. While Grape Seed Oil is beneficial, using it at this concentration can result in a heavier, more occlusive feel, which can contribute to stickiness and slower absorption, especially in a face cream.

You asked if you could replace Grape Seed Oil with Grape Seed Extract. These two ingredients are very different. Grape Seed Oil is an emollient oil used in the oil phase, providing moisture and a certain skin feel. Grape Seed Extract, on the other hand, is a water-soluble antioxidant extract typically used in the water phase for its beneficial compounds like OPCs. Replacing the oil with the extract is not a direct substitution and will not help in reducing the oily/sticky texture caused by the oil phase. Grape Seed Extract is usually used at a much lower concentration (0.5-5%, with 0.5-2% recommended to avoid darkening the formula color) for its antioxidant properties.

To improve the texture of your cream and make it less sticky and faster absorbing, consider these suggestions:

• Reduce the amount of Grape Seed Oil: Lowering the percentage of Grape Seed Oil from 15% to a lower amount (e.g., 5-10%) is the most effective way to reduce the oily feel and improve absorption.
• Replace some Grape Seed Oil with lighter emollients: If you wish to maintain a significant oil phase but want a lighter feel, you could replace a portion of the Grape Seed Oil with lighter emollients such as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride or other light esters.
• Consider the emulsifier concentration: Light Cream Maker is designed to create light textures and can emulsify up to 20% oil. While 1.5% is within the recommended usage rate, the combination with 15% oil might still result in a heavier feel than desired. Adjusting the oil phase is usually the primary method to influence the final skin feel regarding oiliness.

The percentages of your active ingredients (Palmaria Palmata Extract, Vitamin C Ester, Safe-B3, Activated Resorcinol) are within typical usage rates and contribute to the cream's efficacy. The Mild Preserved Eco and Fragrance percentages also appear appropriate.

In summary, replacing Grape Seed Oil with Grape Seed Extract is not a suitable solution for your texture issue. The best approach is to reduce the amount of Grape Seed Oil in your formula or replace some of it with lighter emollients.