Facial Cream Formulation: Texture, Stiff Peaks, and Skin Feel Analysis

Asked by: weraskin19 On: March 22, 2026 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like to inquire about the following facial cream formulation:

Ingredients:

  • Olive Oil: 1.00%
  • Mineral Oil 26: 2.50%
  • LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate): 2.50%
  • IPM (Isopropyl Myristate)
  • Dimethicone (Medium/350): 1.50%
  • Stearic acid: 1.00%
  • Stearyl alcohol: 0.50%
  • Cetyl alcohol (concerned about white cast): 0.30%
  • Cetearyl alcohol: 1.50%
  • Lexemul 561: 3.50%
  • UV (Oil-soluble): 0.10%
  • Water
  • EDTA: 0.10%
  • Glycerin: 2.00%
  • HEC (Hydroxyethyl Cellulose): 0.20%
  • Butylene glycol: 2.00%
  • 1-3 Propanediol: 1.00%
  • Niacinamide B3: 4.00%
  • Alpha Arbutin: 2.00%
  • Panthenol B5: 1.00%
  • Q10: 0.30%
  • Vitamin E: -
  • Ethoxydiglycol: 2.00%
  • OX (Protec™ OX): 0.60%
  • Allantoin: 0.20%
  • Preservative: 1.00%

Questions:

  1. Based on this formula, will the cream texture form "stiff peaks" and look aesthetically pleasing?
  2. Will it feel sticky or greasy when applied to the face?

Answer

Based on your formula, here is an analysis of the texture and skin feel:

1. Texture and "Stiff Peaks"

The formula will definitely result in a cream texture. The combination of Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate (emulsifier) with consistency enhancers like Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, and Cetearyl Alcohol, along with Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) as a water-phase thickener, provides a stable structure.

  • To achieve "Stiff Peaks": If the current texture is too soft, you can increase the amount of Cetyl Alcohol or Cetearyl Alcohol to 2-3% total. This will make the cream thicker and hold its shape better.

2. Stickiness and Skin Feel

The formula is well-balanced to avoid excessive stickiness:

  • Light Feel: The inclusion of LipidSoft™ Lite and Isopropyl Myristate (IPM) helps reduce the greasiness of the oils, making the cream spread easily and feel lighter on the skin.
  • Smoothness: Mineral Oil (Light) and Medium Viscosity Silicone provide a smooth glide and help reduce the "white cast" (soaping effect) that can occur when rubbing the cream, which you mentioned as a concern with Cetyl Alcohol.
  • Humectants: Glycerin and Glycols at 5% total are at a good level for hydration without being overly tacky.

Suggestions:

  • White Cast: To further reduce the white streaks during application, ensure the Medium Viscosity Silicone is well-dispersed.
  • Antioxidant: Since you have natural oils and active ingredients, the inclusion of Protec™ OX is excellent for preventing rancidity and protecting the actives like Alpha Arbutin and Q10.
  • Active Stability: Ethoxydiglycol is a great choice here to help penetrate and stabilize the active ingredients.

Overall, this is a solid professional-style base that should feel pleasant on the face.