Facial Foam Mousse Formulation: Ingredients, pH, & Makeup Removal

Question

I am developing a facial foam mousse for acne-prone skin, intended for use with a foam pump. I would like feedback on my formulation and have several questions regarding the process and ingredients. The staff provided a revised formula recommendation:

Mild-Wash™ (Sodium Lauroamphoacetate) 12%
Coco-Foam™ (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine) 12%
Encapsulated Salicylic Acid 4%
MOIST24 (Glycereth-26) 5%
Phenoxyethanol 1%
Citric Acid or Lactic Acid to adjust pH to 5-6
Water, remaining part

My specific questions are:

What is the correct order of mixing for these ingredients?
Can MOIST24 be replaced with Butylene Glycol? How would this affect the formula?
Is pH adjustment necessary for this formula, and if so, what is the target pH range and what ingredients should be used (e.g., Citric Acid or Lactic Acid)?
Is it necessary to add EDTA (like Disodium EDTA) when using distilled water for stability?
Given the Salicylic Acid in the cleanser, is it still necessary to use an Essence containing AHA/BHA/PHA in the step afterwards for acne treatment?
How effective is this formula at removing makeup and sunscreen, and what can be added (like MakeUp-Wash) to improve this, and what are the potential side effects (e.g., reduced foam)?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello,

Regarding your facial foam mousse formulation, we have reviewed it and provided recommendations, including a revised formula. Here is a summary based on the staff's advice:

The staff recommended a revised formula focusing on sufficient foam for a foam pump bottle and cleansing effectiveness, with the following ingredients:

Mild-Wash™ (Sodium Lauroamphoacetate) 12%
Coco-Foam™ (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine) 12%
Encapsulated Salicylic Acid 4%
MOIST24 (Glycereth-26) 5%
Phenoxyethanol 1%
Citric Acid or Lactic Acid to adjust pH to 5-6
Water, remaining part

Here are the answers to your specific questions based on the staff's replies:

Order of mixing: All ingredients can be mixed into water without a specific order.
MOIST24 vs Butylene Glycol: The staff kept MOIST24 in the revised formula and adjusted other surfactants from your original formula to help generate foam better, which will affect the feel after washing.
pH adjustment: Yes, it is necessary to adjust the pH of the formula to the range of 5-6 using Citric Acid or Lactic Acid.
Adding EDTA to distilled water: If the product bottle is well-sealed and not easily exposed to air, adding EDTA is not strictly necessary. However, if you wish to enhance the stability of the formula, you can add approximately 0.2-0.3% Disodium EDTA.
Using AHA/BHA/PHA in subsequent Essence: This depends on the amount of clogged acne you have. If you have a large amount, using BHA in a leave-on product form is more necessary. However, if you only have minor acne, the amount in the cleanser might be sufficient.
Formula adjustment: The staff has recommended a revised formula as listed above.

Regarding your follow-up question about makeup removal, this revised formula should be reasonably effective at removing makeup and sunscreen. If you need to increase makeup removal effectiveness, you can consider adding MakeUp-Wash to the formula, but please note that this might slightly reduce the amount of foam. The staff recommends trying this revised formula first, and if you find you need more makeup removal power, you can consider adding MakeUp-Wash later.

Hope this information is helpful for your product formulation!