Facial Redness from Serum Formulation

Question

I tested the following formula by applying it and leaving it on overnight. My face turned red in the morning. Which ingredient in the formula below caused this reaction? Formula: Water, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/216-xanthan-gum-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A1-%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AA.html:1bl8j1j2]Xanthan Gum[/url:1bl8j1j2] 0.7, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/184-disodium-edta-2na.html:1bl8j1j2]Disodium EDTA[/url:1bl8j1j2] 0.2, [url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/143-glycerin-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99.html:1bl8j1j2]Glycerin[/url:1bl8j1j2] 3.0, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:1bl8j1j2]B3[/url:1bl8j1j2] 3.0, complex sallicylic acid 5.0, centelella extract 1.0, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/2156-epigallocatechin-gallate.html:1bl8j1j2]Green Tea Extract[/url:1bl8j1j2] 1.0, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/75-allantoin-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87-%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2.html:1bl8j1j2]Allantoin[/url:1bl8j1j2] 0.2, [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/155-phenoxyethanol-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5paraben.html:1bl8j1j2]Phenoxyethanol[/url:1bl8j1j2] 0.5.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on the formula you provided and the properties of the ingredients, the facial redness you experienced after leaving the serum on overnight is most likely due to the Complex Salicylic Acid and potentially the B3 (Niacinamide).

Here's why:

Complex Salicylic Acid (5.0%): Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its exfoliating properties. While effective for treating acne and dissolving pore blockages, a concentration of 5% is quite high for a leave-on product, especially when applied overnight. Leaving a high concentration of exfoliant on the skin for an extended period can easily lead to irritation, redness, and sensitivity, particularly if your skin is not accustomed to it. The description for Salicylic Acid mentions FDA regulations limiting its use to 2% for leave-on cosmetics, highlighting the potential for irritation at higher levels.
B3 (Niacinamide) (3.0%): Niacinamide is generally well-tolerated and offers many skin benefits, including reducing redness and strengthening the skin barrier. However, in some individuals, particularly at concentrations of 3% or higher, it can cause temporary flushing or redness. While the Safe-B3™ type is designed to minimize flushing, individual skin sensitivity varies, and 3% could still be a contributing factor, especially in combination with the high concentration of Salicylic Acid.

Ingredients like Centella Extract and Allantoin are typically included in formulas for their soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, making them unlikely causes of redness. Green Tea Extract also has anti-inflammatory benefits.

Leaving a formula with a high concentration of an active exfoliant like 5% Salicylic Acid on the skin overnight significantly increases the contact time and penetration, raising the likelihood of irritation and redness.

To avoid this reaction, you could consider:

Reducing the concentration of Salicylic Acid in your formula.
Using the serum less frequently (e.g., every other night or a few times a week).
Applying a soothing moisturizer after the serum.
If your skin is very sensitive, you might need to reduce the concentration of Niacinamide as well or use the serum for a shorter contact time before rinsing.