Feasibility of adding multiple actives and oils to a cream base for a night cream (oily/combination skin)

ถามโดย: thangetsmail เมื่อ: August 11, 2022 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

Hello, I would like to ask for advice regarding submitting a formula for production using Absolue Soft Cream Base (compare to Lancome) as the base. Is it correct that I can add water-soluble ingredients, oil-soluble ingredients, and natural oils (Rose Hip Oil) directly without needing additional solvents or carriers?

If my understanding is correct, is a formula like this feasible for production? I want it to be a night facial cream for combination to rather oily skin.

Here is the formula:

  • Wakame Extract 1.00%
  • Japanese Cedar 1.00%
  • Pure-Adenosine™ 0.50%
  • Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol 1.00%
  • GABA Natural 3.00%
  • Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50%
  • Pure- Oryzanol™ 0.50%
  • Niacinamide 5.00%
  • WhiteCumin™ 0.30%
  • Ume Extract 1.00%
  • Rice Vitamin 2.00%
  • Panthenol 2.00%
  • Rose Hip Oil (Virgin, Fresh) 1.00%
  • Absolue Soft Cream Base (compare to Lancome) to make up 100%

Thank you.

คำตอบ

Formula Assessment

Based on the product descriptions:

  1. Adding Ingredients Directly: The "Absolue Soft Cream Base (compare to Lancome)" is designed as a versatile base that allows for the direct addition of various active ingredients. Since it is an emulsion containing both water and oil phases, you can generally incorporate both water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients, as well as natural oils like Rose Hip Oil, without needing additional dedicated solvents or carriers for simple mixing. So, your understanding on this point is generally correct.

  2. Formula Feasibility for Production: While direct mixing is possible, the feasibility for commercial production requires careful consideration:

    • High Active Load: Your formula includes a total of 18.80% active ingredients. The base is recommended for use at 90-100%. Using the base at 81.20% means you are adding a significant amount of external ingredients. While the base is versatile, adding such a high concentration and diverse mix of actives can impact the stability, viscosity, and overall texture of the final product over time. It increases the risk of issues like phase separation or changes in consistency.
    • Ingredient Compatibility: The base is designed to be compatible with many actives, but the interaction of 13 different ingredients at these specific concentrations needs thorough evaluation. Factors like optimal pH range for each ingredient and potential interactions between them should be considered to ensure efficacy and stability. Some ingredients also require specific storage conditions (like refrigeration), which might add complexity to manufacturing and storage of the finished product.
    • Stability Testing: For commercial production, rigorous stability testing (e.g., testing at different temperatures, freeze-thaw cycles, and over the intended shelf life) is essential to confirm that the formula remains stable, safe, and effective. A complex formula with a high active load like this is more likely to require significant R&D and testing compared to a simpler formula.
  3. Suitability for Oily/Combination Skin: The "Absolue Soft Cream Base" contains rich emollients. Adding 1% Rose Hip Oil and other oil-soluble ingredients on top of this base might result in a cream that feels quite rich or potentially heavy for oily or combination skin, especially as a nighttime cream. While ingredients like Niacinamide and Rice Vitamin are beneficial for balancing oiliness and hydration, the overall feel might still be too occlusive for some individuals with this skin type.

In conclusion, while you can physically mix these ingredients into the base, creating a stable, effective, and commercially viable product suitable for oily/combination skin from this formula would require professional formulation expertise and extensive stability and sensory testing. It's not a guaranteed outcome just by mixing the components.

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