Foaming BHA Facial Cleanser Formula for Acne

Asked by: workoutetc On: January 28, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I would like a formula for a foaming facial cleanser with BHA for clogged acne, similar to the Dr. Somchai gel type, but I want a foam texture like the Dr. Somchai foam cleanser I currently use. I am new to formulating and practicing now.

I have a pH meter. What should the pH be? Could you please explain the steps and the order of adding ingredients?

My current gel formula uses the following ingredients:

  • Water: q.s.
  • AminoWash™: 20%
  • Salicylic Acid EZ: 10%
  • ClearClean™: 5%
  • Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%

Please provide a suggested formula and mixing steps for a foaming version. Thank you.

Answer

Foaming BHA Cleanser Formula

Based on your interest in creating a foaming facial cleanser with BHA for clogged acne, similar to the Dr. Somchai gel cleanser you've used, here is a suggested formula and method to achieve a foam texture.

Your current gel formula uses ClearClean™ as a thickener, which is suitable for gels but not ideal for a light foam texture. To create a foaming cleanser, the surfactant system is key. Your formula already includes AminoWash™ (Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate), which is a gentle, amino acid-based surfactant that can produce good foam.

For the Salicylic Acid, you mentioned "Salicylic Acid EZ, water-soluble type". While standard Salicylic Acid (ID 148) is not water-soluble, we have water-soluble options suitable for wash-off products like Liquid Salicylic Acid (40% Active Salicylic, Cationic For Wash-Off) (ID 7594) or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble) (ID 10947). Your listed usage rate of 10% for Salicylic Acid EZ seems high compared to typical recommendations for active Salicylic Acid in wash-off products (usually 1-2%). We recommend using 2.5-5% of either Liquid Salicylic Acid (ID 7594) or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (ID 10947) to achieve 1-2% active Salicylic Acid in your final product.

Here is a suggested formula for a foaming BHA cleanser:

  • Water: q.s. to 100%
  • AminoWash™ (Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate) (ID 7962): 10-15%
  • Water-soluble Salicylic Acid (ID 7594 or ID 10947): 2.5-5% (to get 1-2% active BHA)
  • Phenoxyethanol SA (ID 928): 1%

Mixing Steps:

  1. Add the required amount of Water to a clean beaker.
  2. Add the Water-soluble Salicylic Acid (either Liquid Salicylic Acid (ID 7594) or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (ID 10947)) to the water phase and stir gently until fully dissolved.
  3. Slowly add AminoWash™ (Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate) (ID 7962) to the mixture. Stir gently to minimize excessive foam formation during mixing.
  4. Add Phenoxyethanol SA (ID 928) and stir until evenly distributed.
  5. Measure the pH of the mixture using your pH meter.
  6. Adjust the pH to the range of 4.0-5.5. You can use a few drops of a mild acid solution (like Citric Acid solution) to lower the pH or a mild base solution (like Triethanolamine or Sodium Hydroxide solution) to raise the pH, stirring well after each addition and re-measuring until the desired pH is reached.
  7. Once the pH is stable and all ingredients are well combined, the foaming cleanser is ready to be transferred to a foaming pump bottle.

Regarding pH: For a Salicylic Acid wash-off product, a pH between 4.0 and 5.5 is generally recommended. This range balances the efficacy of Salicylic Acid with potential skin irritation. While Salicylic Acid is more active at lower pH levels (around 3-4), this can be too irritating for a facial cleanser. A pH of 4.0-5.5 is a good compromise for a wash-off product.

Remember to always perform a small test batch first and adjust ingredient percentages based on your desired foam level and cleansing performance.