Foaming BHA Facial Cleanser Formula for Acne
Question
I would like a formula for a foaming facial cleanser with BHA for clogged acne, similar to the Dr. Somchai gel type, but I want a foam texture like the Dr. Somchai foam cleanser I currently use. I am new to formulating and practicing now.
I have a pH meter. What should the pH be? Could you please explain the steps and the order of adding ingredients?
My current gel formula uses the following ingredients:
- Water: q.s.
- AminoWash™: 20%
- Salicylic Acid EZ: 10%
- ClearClean™: 5%
- Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
Please provide a suggested formula and mixing steps for a foaming version. Thank you.
Answer
Foaming BHA Cleanser Formula
Based on your interest in creating a foaming facial cleanser with BHA for clogged acne, similar to the Dr. Somchai gel cleanser you've used, here is a suggested formula and method to achieve a foam texture.
Your current gel formula uses ClearClean™ as a thickener, which is suitable for gels but not ideal for a light foam texture. To create a foaming cleanser, the surfactant system is key. Your formula already includes AminoWash™ (Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate), which is a gentle, amino acid-based surfactant that can produce good foam.
For the Salicylic Acid, you mentioned "Salicylic Acid EZ, water-soluble type". While standard Salicylic Acid (ID 148) is not water-soluble, we have water-soluble options suitable for wash-off products like Liquid Salicylic Acid (40% Active Salicylic, Cationic For Wash-Off) (ID 7594) or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble) (ID 10947). Your listed usage rate of 10% for Salicylic Acid EZ seems high compared to typical recommendations for active Salicylic Acid in wash-off products (usually 1-2%). We recommend using 2.5-5% of either Liquid Salicylic Acid (ID 7594) or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (ID 10947) to achieve 1-2% active Salicylic Acid in your final product.
Here is a suggested formula for a foaming BHA cleanser:
- Water: q.s. to 100%
- AminoWash™ (Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate) (ID 7962): 10-15%
- Water-soluble Salicylic Acid (ID 7594 or ID 10947): 2.5-5% (to get 1-2% active BHA)
- Phenoxyethanol SA (ID 928): 1%
Mixing Steps:
- Add the required amount of Water to a clean beaker.
- Add the Water-soluble Salicylic Acid (either Liquid Salicylic Acid (ID 7594) or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (ID 10947)) to the water phase and stir gently until fully dissolved.
- Slowly add AminoWash™ (Sodium Lauroyl Glycinate) (ID 7962) to the mixture. Stir gently to minimize excessive foam formation during mixing.
- Add Phenoxyethanol SA (ID 928) and stir until evenly distributed.
- Measure the pH of the mixture using your pH meter.
- Adjust the pH to the range of 4.0-5.5. You can use a few drops of a mild acid solution (like Citric Acid solution) to lower the pH or a mild base solution (like Triethanolamine or Sodium Hydroxide solution) to raise the pH, stirring well after each addition and re-measuring until the desired pH is reached.
- Once the pH is stable and all ingredients are well combined, the foaming cleanser is ready to be transferred to a foaming pump bottle.
Regarding pH: For a Salicylic Acid wash-off product, a pH between 4.0 and 5.5 is generally recommended. This range balances the efficacy of Salicylic Acid with potential skin irritation. While Salicylic Acid is more active at lower pH levels (around 3-4), this can be too irritating for a facial cleanser. A pH of 4.0-5.5 is a good compromise for a wash-off product.
Remember to always perform a small test batch first and adjust ingredient percentages based on your desired foam level and cleansing performance.
Related Products Mentioned
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)