Formula Check for Gel Scrub: Compatibility, Exfoliation, and Color

Question

Need help checking the compatibility and characteristics of a formula for a gel scrub. I want a cloudy, quite thick gel texture with slight foam, leaving the skin feeling soft and smooth after use. The formula is: 1) ClearClean™ 10%, 2) Coco Wash™ 4%, 3) Condi-B5™ 3%, 4) Polyglide™ 3.5%, 5) Scrub beads 15%, 6) Fractionated Coconut Oil 5%, 7) Olive Oil 5%, 8) Aloe Vera Extract 10%, 7) Phenoxyethanol SA 1.25%, 8) DI Water 43.25%. A) Is this formula compatible and suitable? B) If I want to add an ingredient to accelerate skin exfoliation, what should I use? C) If I want the product color to be pastel green, what type of colorant should I use? Thank you.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formula Analysis and Recommendations

A) Formula Compatibility and Suitability

Your formula is generally compatible, but there are a few points to consider to achieve the desired texture and stability:

Texture and Thickening: The combination of ClearClean™ and Polyglide™ should help create a thick, viscous gel texture and provide a smooth feel. ClearClean™ is effective for suspending particles like your 15% scrub beads, contributing to the cloudy appearance.
Oil Emulsification: You have a total of 9% oils (Fractionated Coconut Oil and Olive Oil). While Coco Wash™ can help incorporate oils into water-based systems and adds a soft feel, 4% might not be enough to create a stable, emulsified gel with this oil load over time. This could lead to oil separation. You may need to increase the concentration of Coco Wash™ or add a co-emulsifier to improve stability.
Conditioning: Condi-B5™ is a conditioning agent that will help provide the desired soft and smooth skin feel after rinsing.
Foaming: Coco Wash™ is a mild, low-foaming surfactant, so the formula should produce slight foam as you intended.
pH: ClearClean™ works best in a pH range of 4-6. Phenoxyethanol SA is effective between pH 2-6. Aloe Vera Extract has a pH of 3.5-5. You will need to adjust the final pH of your formula to be within the 4-6 range using an acid (like Citric Acid) or base (like Triethanolamine) to ensure optimal thickening, stability, and preservation.

In summary, the formula is suitable for a body scrub gel, but monitor for oil separation and adjust the emulsification system (Coco Wash™ concentration or adding a co-emulsifier) if necessary. Always check and adjust the final pH.

B) Ingredient for Accelerating Skin Exfoliation

To add chemical exfoliation to your formula, Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are commonly used. These ingredients help loosen dead skin cells.

Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid are suitable AHAs for wash-off products. They work effectively at a low pH (typically 3.5-4.0).
Salicylic Acid is a BHA that is oil-soluble and good for exfoliating pores, also requiring a low pH.

Given your formula is a wash-off product, an AHA like Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid would be a good choice. You would add it to the water phase and adjust the final pH to the effective range for the acid (e.g., 3.5-4.0) while ensuring compatibility with your thickener and preservative.

C) Type of Colorant for Pastel Green

To achieve a pastel green color, you should use cosmetic-grade water-soluble colorants.

Water-soluble liquid or powder dyes are suitable for incorporating into the water phase of your gel. Examples include D&C Green No.5 (CI 61570) or Green Powder (CI19140, CI42090).

Add the colorant in small amounts, stirring well, until you achieve the desired pastel shade.