Formula Compatibility and Thickening for Serum

Asked by: varintita88 On: October 24, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have the following formula and would like to know if it is compatible for mixing. If I want to make it thicker, what ingredient should I use?
Formula:
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate 73%
Repair Activator™ Liquid 10%
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%) 1%
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR 3%
TransMoist™ 2%
Glycerin 3%
Safe-B3™ 4%
GlucoBright™ 4%

Answer

Formula Compatibility and Thickening

Your formula is primarily water-based and the ingredients listed are generally compatible for a serum or essence type product. Most of the active ingredients are water-soluble and can be mixed into the water phase.

Important Note on Mixing: Some ingredients like Repair Activator™, Pal-GHK/Pal-GQPR, and Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate are sensitive to heat and should be added in the final step after the main base has cooled down, ideally below 40°C.

To make your formula thicker, you will need to add a water-soluble thickening agent. Here are a couple of suitable options that are easy to use and compatible with your ingredients:

  • Sepimax Zen: This is a highly tolerant thickener that works well across a wide pH range (2-10) and is resistant to electrolytes. It is easy to use, requires no heat, and creates a clear gel texture. It is a good choice if you want a transparent serum.
  • CreamThick™: This is another easy-to-use thickener (Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate) that does not require heat and works in a broad pH range (3-9). It is also resistant to electrolytes. However, it will result in a milky white gel texture, so it's suitable if clarity is not a primary concern.

Both Sepimax Zen and CreamThick™ can be added to the water phase and dispersed without needing high heat, which is important for preserving the efficacy of your heat-sensitive ingredients. Start with a low percentage (e.g., 0.5-1%) and gradually increase until you achieve your desired viscosity.