Formula Compatibility Check for Custom Serum

ถามโดย: ramacno เมื่อ: April 02, 2021 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

Please check the compatibility of the following ingredients and their percentages for a cosmetic formulation before I place an order: 1. Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) 2%, 2. Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble) 2%, 3. Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™ Powder) 3%, 4. CosmoWhite™ (1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide) 1.5%, 5. Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) 2%, 6. ActiveProtec™ OX 0.6%, 7. Tranexamic Acid 2%, 8. Z-White™ 1%, 9. Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Switzerland) 2.4%, 10. Sodium PCA 50% 2%, 11. Sodium Lactate (60% Liquid) 2%, 12. Natural Betaine 2%, 13. TreMoisture™ (Trehalose) 2%, 14. Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation) 2%, 15. น้ำกลั่น ปราศจากเชื้อ 34.5%, 16. TransMoist™ (PPG-24-Glycereth-24) 2%, 17. Trisiloxane 30%, 18. SiliSolve™ (PEG-10 Dimethicone, Odorless) 1%, 19. Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus) 1%, 20. Vitamin B12 (Cyanocobalamin 1%) 5%.

คำตอบ

Formula Compatibility Check

Based on the ingredients provided, here is an assessment of the formula compatibility:

General Compatibility and Emulsion Type

The formula contains a mix of water-soluble ingredients and silicone (Trisiloxane) with a silicone emulsifier (SiliSolve™). This combination suggests the intention to create a Water-in-Silicone (W/Si) emulsion. In this type of emulsion, the water-based ingredients are dispersed within the silicone phase.

The ratio of water (34.5%) to the silicone/emulsifier phase (31%) is somewhat high for the internal water phase in a typical W/Si emulsion. However, SiliSolve™ is designed to handle high water content, so this ratio may be achievable with proper mixing.

pH Considerations

Several ingredients have specific pH requirements for optimal stability and efficacy:

  • Alpha Arbutin: pH 3.5-6.5 (avoid > 8)
  • ActiveProtec™ OX: pH > 4
  • Tranexamic Acid: pH 3-8
  • Safe-B3™ (Niacinamide): Optimal pH 4.0-7.0
  • Apple Stem Cell Extract: pH 3.5-6.5 (based on liquid form description)
  • Ume Extract: pH 4.0-6.5
  • Phenoxyethanol SA (Preservative): pH 2.0-6.0
  • Vitamin B12: Optimal pH 5.8, recommended 4.0-6.5 (avoid outside 4-7)

To ensure compatibility and effectiveness of all these ingredients, the final formula should have a pH in the range of 4.0 to 6.0.

Mixing Instructions and Key Considerations

  1. Glabridin Dissolution: The Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%) requires a solvent like Butylene Glycol or Ethanol to dissolve properly. Your current formula does not include either of these solvents. You must add a suitable solvent (e.g., Butylene Glycol at least 10 times the amount of Glabridin, so at least 20%) to dissolve the Glabridin separately before incorporating it into the formula. This is a critical step for the Glabridin to be effective and properly dispersed.
  2. Emulsion Preparation: Follow the mixing instructions for SiliSolve™: Combine Trisiloxane and SiliSolve™ in one phase (silicone phase). Prepare the water phase by dissolving most water-soluble ingredients (Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Natural Betaine, TreMoisture, Ectoine, TransMoist, CosmoWhite, Safe-B3, Tranexamic Acid, Z-White, Distilled Water). Gradually add the water phase to the silicone phase with continuous mixing to form the emulsion.
  3. Temperature Sensitivity: Several ingredients are sensitive to heat and should be added in the final step once the emulsion has cooled:
    • Ume Extract: Add below 40°C.
    • Alpha Arbutin: Add below 30°C.
    • Apple Stem Cell Extract: Add below 60°C (based on liquid form description).
    • Phenoxyethanol SA: Add below 60°C.
    • Vitamin B12: Avoid heat.
    • Add the separately dissolved Glabridin at this stage as well.
  4. ActiveProtec™ OX: The inclusion of ActiveProtec™ OX is beneficial for the stability and prevention of discoloration of Alpha Arbutin and Tranexamic Acid, as recommended in their descriptions. The percentage used (0.6%) is within the recommended range.
  5. Vitamin B12: Vitamin B12 is sensitive to light and potentially other vitamins like Niacinamide (Vitamin B3). While they are often formulated together, the stability of Vitamin B12 might be affected over time. To help maintain its efficacy, store the final product in an opaque container and ideally in a refrigerator (6-8°C) as recommended for Vitamin B12 storage.
  6. Apple Stem Cell Extract: You listed the powder type, but the description provided is for the liquid type. Assuming the powder type is water-soluble as indicated, it can be added to the water phase or the final cooled mixture, respecting the temperature guideline.

Summary

The formula is generally compatible in terms of ingredient types for a W/Si emulsion, provided the correct mixing procedure is followed. The most critical point is the need to add a solvent (like Butylene Glycol or Ethanol) to dissolve the Glabridin before adding it to the formula. Adjusting the final pH to the 4.0-6.0 range is also important for ingredient stability and efficacy. Pay close attention to the temperature limitations when adding heat-sensitive actives in the final phase.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
เครื่องสำอาง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™ Liquid)
Apple Stem Cell Extract (AppleCell™ Liquid)
เครื่องสำอาง
Sodium Lactate (60% Liquid, Natural)
Sodium Lactate (60% Liquid, Natural)
เครื่องสำอาง
Sodium PCA 50%
Sodium PCA 50%
เครื่องสำอาง
Natural Betaine (Crystal)
Natural Betaine (Crystal)
เครื่องสำอาง
TreMoisture™ (Trehalose)
TreMoisture™ (Trehalose)
เครื่องสำอาง
SiliSolve™ (PEG-10 Dimethicone, Odorless)
SiliSolve™ (PEG-10 Dimethicone, Odorless)
เครื่องสำอาง
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
เครื่องสำอาง
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation)
เครื่องสำอาง
Trisiloxane
Trisiloxane
เครื่องสำอาง
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™)
เครื่องสำอาง
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
เครื่องสำอาง
Pure-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%)
Pure-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract (Glabridin 90%)
เครื่องสำอาง
Vitamin B12 (Cyanocobalamin 1%)
Vitamin B12 (Cyanocobalamin 1%)
เครื่องสำอาง
CosmoWhite™ (1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide)
CosmoWhite™ (1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Z-White™
Z-White™
เครื่องสำอาง
ActiveProtec™ OX
ActiveProtec™ OX
เครื่องสำอาง
TransMoist™ (PPG-24-Glycereth-24)
TransMoist™ (PPG-24-Glycereth-24)
เครื่องสำอาง