Formula Feedback for Multi-Use Stain Stick (Lips, Eyes, Cheeks)

Asked by: lucia On: March 04, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Hello, I would like advice on the formula below.

I plan to custom manufacture a stain stick that can be used on the lips, eyes, and cheeks.

I would like the color and texture to be similar to the attached picture (picture not provided).

Here is the formula:

  • Olive CLEAR (Hydrogenated Olive Oil) - 20.00%
  • Fractionated Coconut Oil - 10.00%
  • Jojoba Oil (Clear) - 10.00%
  • Rose Hip Oil (Extra virgin organic) - 2.00%
  • Sunflower Oil - 10.00%
  • Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) - 0.50%
  • Rosemary Extract (ROE) - 0.05%
  • Babassu Oil (Organic) - 2.00%
  • Red Iron Oxide Easy Mix - 20.00%
  • Peppermint Oil - 0.50%
  • shea butter - 10.00%
  • White Iron Oxide Easy Mix - 4.95%
  • Candelilla Wax (Refined) - 10.00%

Thank you.

Answer

Formula Feedback for Multi-Use Stain Stick

Thank you for providing your formula for a multi-use stain stick. It contains a good selection of oils, butters, and waxes suitable for this type of product.

However, based on the ingredients and their typical usage in cosmetics, I have a few key observations and recommendations, particularly concerning the pigment load and the inclusion of peppermint oil.

Key Concerns and Recommendations

  • High Pigment Concentration: Your formula uses Red Iron Oxide Easy Mix at 20% and White Iron Oxide Easy Mix at 4.95%. While the recommended usage rate for Red Iron Oxide Easy Mix is up to 20%, using pigments at such a high total concentration (nearly 25%) in a stick format intended for lips, eyes, and cheeks is highly likely to result in a product that is:

    • Very dry and stiff.
    • Difficult to apply smoothly.
    • Hard to blend evenly on the skin.
    • Potentially feel heavy or powdery.

    For a multi-use stain stick that aims for a smooth, blendable texture, significantly lower pigment percentages are typically used. I strongly recommend reducing the percentage of both Red Iron Oxide Easy Mix and White Iron Oxide Easy Mix significantly. Start with a much lower total pigment concentration, perhaps in the 1-5% range, and adjust based on small test batches to achieve the desired color intensity and texture. Using coated pigments like the Easy Mix type you selected is beneficial for easier dispersion and smoother application even at lower concentrations.

  • Peppermint Oil: Your formula includes Peppermint Oil at 0.5%. While it provides a refreshing sensation, peppermint oil can be irritating, especially for the sensitive skin around the eyes. Since this product is intended for use on the eyes, it is highly recommended to remove the Peppermint Oil from the formula to avoid potential irritation.

Other Ingredients in Your Formula

The other ingredients in your formula serve important functions:

  • Oils and Butters: Olive CLEAR (Hydrogenated Olive Oil), Fractionated Coconut Oil, Jojoba Oil (Clear), Rose Hip Oil (Extra Virgin), Sunflower Oil, Babassu Oil, and Shea Butter provide emollience, moisturization, and skin conditioning properties.
  • Waxes: Hydrogenated Olive Oil and Candelilla Wax (Refined) help to solidify the formula and provide structure to the stick. Candelilla Wax also contributes to the product's shine.
  • Antioxidants: Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) and Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE) are included to help protect the oils in your formula from oxidation, extending the product's shelf life.

Next Steps

After reducing the pigment load and removing the peppermint oil, the texture of your stick will change. You may need to slightly adjust the percentages of the waxes and butters to achieve the desired hardness and glide for a multi-use stick. This will require making and testing small batches to fine-tune the formula.

Testing small batches with the adjusted percentages is crucial to evaluate the texture, color payoff, blendability, and overall performance on lips, eyes, and cheeks before scaling up production.