Formula for Very Dehydrated Skin: Water-based vs. Cream

Question

I need a formula for very dehydrated skin. The staff recommended a cream formula including an oil phase. Can you provide details or compare it to a water-based approach? The recommended formula is:

Water Phase:
- Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) 5%
- GlucoBright™ (N-Acetyl-D Glucosamine) 4%
- TreMoisture™ (Trehalose) 1%
- Oligo GGF (Raffinose) 1%
- Betaine 2%
- Double Hyaluron Liquid 1%
- MOIST24 5%
- Vitamin B5 2%
- Mild Preserved Eco 1%
- Satin Cream Maker 1.5%
- Water to 100%
Oil Phase:
- Shea Butter Light Oil 10%
Mixing Procedure: Mix water phase ingredients. Add Satin Cream Maker, stir until gel. Add oil phase, stir 5 minutes until cream.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Regarding the stability of your proposed water-based formula for very dehydrated skin:

Your formula appears stable as a water-based gel. The combination of ingredients, including humectants, skin conditioners, Xanthan Gum as a thickener/stabilizer, and Optiphen Plus as a preservative, should result in a stable product in terms of ingredient compatibility and physical form.

However, for very dehydrated skin, which often has a compromised skin barrier, a purely water-based formula, while providing hydration, may not be sufficient to prevent Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). The staff's suggestion addresses this by incorporating an oil phase (Shea Butter Light Oil) and an emulsifier (Satin Cream Maker) to create a cream.

Comparison:

Your Formula: A water-based gel/serum rich in humectants (Niacinamide, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Hyaluronic Acid, Trehalose, Betaine, Amino Acids, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Raffinose). It focuses on drawing water into the skin but lacks components to significantly reduce water loss.
Staff's Suggested Formula: An emulsion (cream) containing many humectants (Niacinamide, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, Hyaluronic Acid, Trehalose, Raffinose, Betaine, MOIST24, Vitamin B5) plus an oil phase (Shea Butter Light Oil). This provides both hydration and emollients/occlusives that help build the skin's lipid barrier, thereby reducing TEWL and keeping the skin hydrated for longer.

While your formula is stable and provides good hydration, the staff's suggested formula is likely more effective for very dehydrated skin because the inclusion of a lipid phase better supports the skin barrier function, which is crucial for retaining moisture.