Formula Review for Very Dry, Sensitive, Peeling Skin

Thank you for sharing your cream formula. It includes several excellent ingredients well-suited for very dry, sensitive, and peeling skin. I have reviewed the ingredients and percentages based on the information available.

Here is an assessment of your formula:

• Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid (3%): This ingredient, similar to Glycyrrhetinic acid (Enoxolone), is known for its anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties, making it suitable for sensitive and irritated skin. The 3% concentration is at the higher end of the typical recommended range (0.1-3%, with 1% often recommended), but can be appropriate for significant irritation.

• Allantoin (0.25%): Allantoin is a good ingredient for soothing skin, reducing irritation, and promoting healing, which is beneficial for peeling and irritated skin. The concentration of 0.25% is within the recommended range (0.1-2.0%) but slightly below the generally recommended 0.5% for optimal soothing effects.

• Vitamin B12 (Cyanochobalamin) (5%): Based on the product information for Vitamin B12 (Cyanocobalamin 1%), this ingredient is effective in reducing inflammation and irritation and can help with conditions like Atopic Dermatitis. The 5% usage rate in your formula likely refers to 5% of the 1% concentration product, which translates to 0.05% pure Vitamin B12. This concentration is within the recommended range (1-7% of the 1% product, or 0.01-0.07% pure B12) and specifically recommended at 5% of the 1% product for Atopic Dermatitis symptoms, making it appropriate for your target skin type.

• Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule) (0.1%): Hyaluronic Acid is excellent for providing hydration. However, a concentration of 0.1% of a Nano Molecule Hyaluronic Acid ingredient (such as Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule, 800daltons) or Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule, 2000daltons), or even a liquid form like Double Hyaluron Liquid which contains 5% HA) is likely too low to provide significant hydration for very dry skin. For very dry skin, a higher concentration of Hyaluronic Acid is generally recommended (e.g., using Double Hyaluron Liquid at 10-20% of the total formula).

• Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch) (10%): This is a key ingredient for dry, sensitive, and compromised skin barriers. Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™, Cream) helps restore the skin's natural barrier, reducing water loss and improving resilience. The 10% concentration is excellent and appropriate for addressing severe dryness and sensitivity.

• Satin Cream Maker (1%): Satin Cream Maker™ is an effective O/W emulsifier suitable for creating creams by hand mixing, as discussed in the staff reply. The 1% concentration is within the recommended range (1-1.5% for typical viscosity) and should work well with your oil phase percentage.

• MOIST72 (5%): MOIST72™ (Saccharide Isomerate) is a highly effective humectant that provides long-lasting hydration. The 5% concentration is the maximum recommended rate and is ideal for very dry and chapped skin.

Considerations for Mixing:

The formula uses Satin Cream Maker, which creates an Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsion. This type is suitable for mixing by hand, as noted by the staff. While a Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsion might offer a richer feel and potentially better barrier protection for extremely dry skin, O/W emulsions formulated with strong barrier repair ingredients like Ceramide Complex and effective humectants like MOIST72 can still be highly beneficial.

One important consideration is the mixing temperature. Glycyrrhetinic acid (Enoxolone) requires dissolving in Glycol with heat (60-70°C), while Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch™, Cream), MOIST72™, and Vitamin B12 (Cyanocobalamin 1%) should be added at temperatures below 40°C to maintain their stability and efficacy. This means you should dissolve the Glycyrrhetinic Acid in its solvent with heat, allow it to cool significantly (below 40°C), and then combine it with the other water phase ingredients before proceeding with the emulsification step with the oil phase and Satin Cream Maker. MOIST72 should be added in the final cooling phase.

Suggested Adjustments:

1. Hyaluronic Acid: Consider increasing the concentration of your Hyaluronic Acid ingredient. If using a pure powder, aim for 0.5-1%. If using a liquid concentrate like Double Hyaluron Liquid, use it at 10-20% of the formula for very dry skin, adjusting the water percentage accordingly.
2. Allantoin: You could slightly increase Allantoin to 0.5% for enhanced soothing benefits, if desired, while staying within its solubility limits in water at room temperature (0.5%).
3. Mixing Order: Pay close attention to the mixing temperatures, ensuring heat-sensitive ingredients are added only after the heated phase has cooled below 40°C.

Overall, this is a well-designed formula with potent ingredients for dry, sensitive, and peeling skin. Addressing the Hyaluronic Acid concentration and carefully managing the mixing temperatures will further enhance its effectiveness.