Formula Review and Questions: Irritation Reduction Cream/Essence

Question

Regarding a proposed formula for a cream/essence aimed at reducing irritation: pH Adjustment: If the pH of the formula after mixing is between 7-11 (considering Ingredient 2 has a pH between 5-6 and Ingredient 5 has a pH between 9-11), how should the pH be adjusted? I am concerned that the combined pH might affect other ingredients. Texture Modification: If I want to make this cream more liquid, similar to an essence, what ingredients should be adjusted (increased or decreased)? Mixing Method: Can this formula be mixed manually, or is a machine required? Mixing Order: Was Ingredient 2 (Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate) mixed in the correct step? Should Ingredients 2, 4, 5, and 6 be added after mixing water and Double Hyaluron Liquid?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Re: Formula Review - Irritation Reduction Cream/Essence

Thank you for sharing your formula and skin concerns. Based on your goal to reduce irritation and moisturize oily/combination skin with acne, and the staff's feedback regarding acne treatment and dust irritation, here is a summary and response to your questions based on the staff's recommendations:

The staff recommended addressing acne separately with a product containing Encapsulated Salicylic Acid and suggested minimizing exposure to dust if it's the cause of irritation.

For your formula aimed at reducing irritation and moisturizing, the staff proposed the following modified formula suitable for oily/combination skin:

Double Hyaluron Liquid 3%
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 0.5%
Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid 2%
Rice Vitamin 2%
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™ 1% (Reduced for oily/combination skin)
Oryzanol (Rice Bran Extract) 0.5%
Satin Cream Maker 1.5-2.0% (Changed from Light Cream Maker for better texture)
Phenoxyethanol SA (Optiphen Plus) 1%
Aqua (Adjust to 100%)
Added: Safe-B3 5% (To strengthen skin barrier)
Note:* Grape Seed Extract and Safflower Seed Oil were removed as recommended by the staff (Grape Seed Extract due to color, Safflower Seed Oil due to oily/combination skin type).

Regarding your specific questions:

pH Adjustment: If the pH of your final formula is higher than 7, you can lower it by adding a weak acid such as Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, or Citric Acid drop by drop, checking the pH as you go. If the pH is lower than 4, you can raise it by adding a weak base like Triethanolamine drop by drop. If the pH is between 4-7, no adjustment is necessary.
Essence Consistency: To make the cream more liquid like an essence, you can reduce the percentage of Satin Cream Maker. However, be cautious not to reduce it too much if the oil phase percentage is high, as this could lead to separation.
Manual Mixing: Yes, this formula can be mixed manually without needing a machine mixer.
Mixing Steps for Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate and other water-soluble ingredients: The staff provided a recommended mixing procedure for the modified formula:
- Mix the water phase ingredients (Water, Double Hyaluron Liquid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Rice Vitamin, Panthenol, Safe-B3) until fully dissolved and uniform.
- Add Satin Cream Maker to the water phase and mix until a gel forms.
- Mix the oil phase ingredients (Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Oryzanol) separately.
- Slowly add the oil phase to the gel phase while mixing continuously until a uniform cream/serum is formed.
- Add the preservative (Phenoxyethanol SA) last and mix well.

This procedure clarifies where each ingredient should be added. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate (ingredient #2), Rice Vitamin (#4), and Panthenol (#5) are water-soluble and should be mixed in the water phase along with Double Hyaluron Liquid and Safe-B3 before adding the emulsifier. Grape Seed Extract (#6) was removed from the recommended formula.

We hope this information is helpful!