Formula Review: Anti-Aging Serum, Eye Cream, and Thickener Substitution (Xanthan Gum vs. Pro Polymer)
Question
I have developed two cosmetic formulas and would like your feedback on their suitability.
Anti-Aging Formula (for age 29):
- Kinetin 10%
- Pep®-Coll (Syn-Coll) 3%
- Green Tea Extract (EGCG) 5%
- Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside) 5%
- xanthan gum 1%
- Phenoxylethanol 1%
- water 75%
Eye Cream Formula (for reducing dark circles + puffiness):
- REGU®-AGE 5%
- Beta Glucan (Liquid from Yeast) 5%
- xanthan gum 1%
- phenoxyetanal 1%
- water 88%
Are these formulas suitable?
Additionally, I have both Pro Polymer and Xanthan gum at home. Can these two ingredients be used interchangeably in any formula (disregarding the difference in gel texture)?
Answer
Based on the feedback from the staff:
Your Anti-Aging Formula (Age 29):
The staff believes your formula is suitable. They recommend adding Vitamin B3 at 3-5% for its benefits and affordability.
Your Eye Cream Formula:
This formula is considered okay. However, the staff suggests slightly reducing Phenoxyethanol to 0.88% (1% of the water content) for the eye area to minimize potential irritation.
Substituting Pro Polymer and Xanthan Gum:
Yes, you can generally substitute these two thickeners, keeping in mind they create different gel textures. The main difference is that Xanthan Gum, being natural, has a higher risk of spoilage than the synthetic Pro Polymer. Therefore, it is essential to always include a preservative like Phenoxyethanol when using Xanthan Gum.