Formula Review: Cream for Sensitive and Dry Skin (Non-sticky, Hydrating)
คำถาม
I want to create a cream for sensitive and dry/dehydrated skin based on the formula below. I want a cream texture that is non-sticky but still provides hydration and strengthens the skin to make it thicker and stronger.
Please help review the formula. Thank you very much.
Formula:
Oil Phase
- Sweet Almond Oil: 10.0%
- Shea butter Ultrasoft: 5.0%
- Bisabolol (German Chamomile Extract): 1.0%
- Skin Defense: 2.0%
- Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid: 2.0%
Water Phase
- Water: 67.00%
- Hyaluronic Standard Molecule Powder: 0.50%
- Hyaluronic Nano Molecule Powder: 0.50%
- Ceramide Complex (CeraTouch): 10.0%
Cool Down Phase
- Phynoxy ethanol (Optiphen): 1.0%
- Satin Mousse (Silky Cream Maker): 1.0%
Total: 100.0%
Mixing Instructions:
- Warm Sweet Almond Oil and Shea butter ultra soft at 70°C until dissolved and let cool down. Add Bisabolol, Skin Defense, and Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid and mix well to get the oil phase mixture.
- Mix Water and Ceramide Complex and stir until dissolved. Add Hyaluronic Standard Molecule Powder and Hyaluronic Nano Molecule Powder and stir until dissolved to get the Water phase mixture.
- Add Satin Mousse to the oil phase mixture and stir until it becomes a cream texture.
- Add the Water phase mixture and stir until combined.
- Add Phynoxy ethanol and stir until combined.
คำตอบ
Formula Review for Sensitive and Dehydrated Skin
This formula includes several excellent ingredients for sensitive and dry/dehydrated skin, aiming to provide moisture and strengthen the skin barrier. Here's a review:
Strengths of the Formula:
- Moisturizing and Hydrating: Ingredients like Sweet Almond Oil, Shea Butter, and both Standard and Nano Hyaluronic Acid are great for providing hydration at different levels of the skin and preventing moisture loss.
- Skin Barrier Support: Ceramide Complex and Skin Defense (Phytosterols) are key ingredients for repairing and strengthening the skin's natural barrier, which is crucial for sensitive and dry skin.
- Soothing Properties: Bisabolol (German Chamomile Extract) and Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid are known for their anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant benefits, making the formula suitable for sensitive skin.
Potential Considerations and Recommendations:
- Ceramide Complex Concentration: The formula uses Ceramide Complex at a high concentration (10%). While ceramides are beneficial, this is significantly higher than the typically recommended usage rate (0.1-3%). A high concentration might affect the texture, potentially making the cream feel heavy or unstable. It's recommended to use Ceramide Complex within the suggested range for optimal performance and texture.
- Mixing Instructions for Ceramide Complex: The product description for Ceramide Complex (Water/Oil Dispersible Powder) indicates it should be dispersed in oil or glycol with heat (70-80°C) before being added to the main formula. Mixing it directly with water as a powder, as described in step 2, may lead to poor dispersion and affect the final texture and stability of the cream.
- Mixing Instructions for Satin Cream Maker: The product description for Satin Cream Maker states it should be added to the water phase first, followed by the oil phase. Step 3 of your instructions suggests adding it to the oil phase, which is incorrect and will likely result in a failed emulsion.
Revised Mixing Instructions:
To improve the texture and stability of your cream, consider adjusting the Ceramide Complex concentration and following these revised mixing steps based on the product descriptions:
- Oil Phase Preparation: Heat Sweet Almond Oil and Shea Butter to 70°C until melted. Allow to cool slightly. In a separate container, disperse the Ceramide Complex powder in a small amount of glycol (such as Propylene Glycol or Butylene Glycol) with heating to 70-80°C while stirring until well dispersed. Add this dispersion to the cooled oil phase. Then add Bisabolol, Skin Defense, and Phyto Glycyrrhetinic Acid to the oil phase and mix well.
- Water Phase Preparation: In a separate container, add Satin Cream Maker to the water and mix until dispersed. Then add the Hyaluronic Acid powders (Standard and Nano) to the water phase. Stir or blend until the powders are fully hydrated and dissolved (this may take several hours or require high-shear mixing).
- Emulsification: Slowly add the oil phase (from step 1) to the water phase (from step 2) while mixing continuously. Mix until a homogeneous cream is formed. Avoid mixing at speeds above 2500 rpm.
- Final Step: Once the cream has formed and cooled below 60°C, add the Phenoxyethanol preservative and mix thoroughly. Ensure the pH of the final product is within the recommended range for the preservative (pH 2.0-6.0 for Phenoxyethanol SA).
By adjusting the Ceramide Complex concentration and following the correct mixing procedures for the emulsifier and ceramide, you should be able to achieve a stable cream with a better texture while retaining the beneficial properties for sensitive and dry skin.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule, 1M Daltons)
NaturalProfile™ Sweet Almond Oil (Cold-Pressed)
Shea Butter (Ultra Soft)
Satin Cream Maker™
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
Glycyrrhetinic acid (Enoxolone)
Pure-Phytosterols™
Ceramide Complex (Water/Oil Dispersible Powder)