Formula Review: Gel-Cream moisturizer

Question

I am developing a Gel-Cream moisturizer with the following formula. Could you please provide any additional recommendations or feedback?

[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/14-%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C:2h2m6aev]moisturizer[/url:2h2m6aev]

[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/838-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8C.html:2h2m6aev]DI Water[/url:2h2m6aev] 60%

[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:2h2m6aev]Niacinamide[/url:2h2m6aev] 5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0/2156-epigallocatechin-gallate.html:2h2m6aev]EGCG[/url:2h2m6aev] 1%
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/8584-epidermal-growth-factor-egf-recombinant.html:2h2m6aev]Epidermal Growth Factor[/url:2h2m6aev] 1%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/anti-pollution-%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%9B%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%A0%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B0/1299-ectoin.html:2h2m6aev]Ectoin[/url:2h2m6aev] 2%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%Aม%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/156-sodium-pca-%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%A1-%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AD.html:2h2m6aev]Sodium PCA[/url:2h2m6aev] 5% (electrolyte *)
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/143-glycerin-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99.html:2h2m6aev]Glycerin[/url:2h2m6aev] 5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/111-panthenol-pro-vitamin-b5-%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B55.html:2h2m6aev]Panthenol[/url:2h2m6aev] 1%

[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/search?search_query=dimethicone&orderby=position&orderway=desc:2h2m6aev]Dimethicone[/url:2h2m6aev] 5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/88-rose-hip-oil-extra-virgin-organic-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99-%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%AE%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2.html:2h2m6aev]Rosehip oil[/url:2h2m6aev] 5%

[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/137-ethoxydiglycol-solvent-carrier.html:2h2m6aev]Ethoxydiglycol[/url:2h2m6aev] 5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/928-optiphen-plus.html:2h2m6aev]Phenoxyethanol SA[/url:2h2m6aev] 1%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emulsifier/5938-light-lotion-maker-glyceryl-oleate-citrate.html:2h2m6aev]Light Lotion Maker[/url:2h2m6aev] 2%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/216-xanthan-gum-%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A1-%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AA.html:2h2m6aev]Xanthan Gum[/url:2h2m6aev] 2%

Could you please provide any additional recommendations?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Formula Review: Gel-Cream moisturizer

Thank you for sharing your Gel-Cream moisturizer formula.

I have reviewed the ingredients and percentages you provided:

DI Water: 60%
Niacinamide: 5%
EGCG: 1%
Epidermal Growth Factor: 1%
Ectoin: 2%
Sodium PCA: 5%
Glycerin: 5%
Panthenol: 1%
Dimethicone: 5%
Rosehip oil: 5%
Ethoxydiglycol: 5%
Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
Light Lotion Maker: 2%
Xanthan Gum: 2%

The total percentage adds up to 100%, which is correct.

Comments and Recommendations:

Active Ingredients: The selection of active ingredients like Niacinamide, EGCG, EGF, Ectoin, Sodium PCA, Glycerin, and Panthenol is excellent. These are beneficial for hydration, anti-aging, soothing, and skin barrier support. The concentrations used for most actives seem appropriate.
Xanthan Gum Concentration: The most significant point to consider is the concentration of Xanthan Gum at 2%. This is a very high percentage for Xanthan Gum, especially for a "Gel-Cream" texture.
- Typically, Xanthan Gum is used at concentrations between 0.1% and 0.5% to create gels or thicken emulsions.
- Using 2% will likely result in a very thick, potentially stringy or gummy texture, which may not be desirable for a light gel-cream.
- High concentrations of Xanthan Gum can also sometimes cause issues with stability, particularly in the presence of electrolytes like Sodium PCA.
Recommendation: I strongly recommend reducing the Xanthan Gum concentration. Start with a much lower percentage, perhaps 0.2% - 0.5%, and adjust based on the desired viscosity and texture. You may need to experiment to find the right balance.
Stability: With a high concentration of Xanthan Gum and the presence of Sodium PCA (an electrolyte), it is crucial to perform stability testing on the final product. Check for any changes in viscosity, separation, or appearance over time and under different temperature conditions (e.g., room temperature, elevated temperature, freeze-thaw cycles). The combination of thickeners and emulsifiers needs to be compatible.
Ethoxydiglycol: 5% Ethoxydiglycol is a relatively high concentration. While it can help with solubility and penetration, some individuals might find it slightly irritating. This is something to keep in mind, although it's not necessarily a formula error.

Overall, the formula has a great selection of beneficial ingredients. The main adjustment needed is likely the Xanthan Gum concentration to achieve the desired texture and ensure stability.

I hope this feedback is helpful!