Formulating a 50% AHA Treatment Gel (Wash-Off)
Question
Could you provide a formulation for a 50% AHA treatment gel (wash-off type), similar to those used in clinics? I'd like to know the ingredients and instructions, including options for using either Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid, and how to achieve a gel texture suitable for a high acid concentration using Pro Polymer. Please also include any necessary precautions.
Answer
50% AHA Treatment Gel Formulation (Wash-Off)
Here is a detailed formulation for a 50% AHA Treatment Gel (wash-off type) for a 100g batch, similar to those used in clinics. You can choose between using Glycolic Acid or Lactic Acid.
Important Note: A 50% AHA concentration is very high and intended for professional use or under strict guidance. Always perform a patch test before full application. Use with extreme caution and avoid contact with eyes and mucous membranes. Always use sun protection daily when using this product.
Ingredients for 100g Batch
Choose ONE of the AHA options below:
Option 1: Using Glycolic Acid
- Phase A:
- Distilled/Deionized Water: 46.5 g
- Pro Polymer™: 2.5 g
- Phase B:
- Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid 100% Powder): 50 g
- Phase C:
- Mild Preserved™ COS: 1 g
Option 2: Using Lactic Acid
- Phase A:
- Distilled/Deionized Water: 40.94 g
- Pro Polymer™: 2.5 g
- Phase B:
- Lactic Acid (AHA) 90% Deodorized: 55.56 g
Phase C:
- Mild Preserved™ COS: 1 g
Optional: Sodium Hydroxide solution (e.g., 10% or 20%) for pH adjustment
Instructions:
- Prepare Phase A: Weigh the Distilled/Deionized Water into a clean beaker. Slowly sprinkle the Pro Polymer™ powder onto the surface of the water while stirring gently to avoid clumps. Stir until the powder is dispersed. For best results, let it hydrate for several hours or overnight until a smooth gel forms. You can stir more frequently (avoid high speed, below 2500 rpm) to speed up gelling, but ensure it is fully hydrated.
- Prepare Phase B: In a separate container, weigh your chosen AHA. If using Glycopure™ (powder), you can dissolve it in a small amount of the water from Phase A before adding to the gel.
- Combine Phases: Slowly add Phase B (AHA) to the gel from Phase A while stirring continuously until fully mixed.
- Add Preservative: Add Mild Preserved™ COS (Phase C) to the mixture and stir until uniform.
- Check and Adjust pH: Measure the pH of the gel using a pH meter or low-range pH strips. For a high-concentration peel, the pH is typically very low (e.g., 1.5-2.5) for maximum efficacy, but this also increases the risk of irritation. If you need to raise the pH slightly for better tolerance, carefully add a dilute Sodium Hydroxide solution drop by drop, stirring well after each addition and re-measuring the pH until the desired level is reached. Be extremely cautious when handling Sodium Hydroxide.
- Final Mixing and Packaging: Stir the final gel gently to ensure homogeneity. Pour the finished product into a suitable container.
Usage:
Apply a thin layer to clean, dry skin, avoiding the eye area and lips. Leave on for 15-20 minutes, then rinse thoroughly with cool water. Follow with a gentle moisturizer. Use only as directed and discontinue use if significant irritation occurs.
Remember to store the product properly away from heat and light.
Related Products Mentioned
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)