Formulating a BB Base Similar to Sulwhasoo Snowise

Asked by: porapitch On: March 27, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can I formulate a BB base product with texture and effects similar to Sulwhasoo Snowise BB Base? I am interested in understanding the key functional ingredients like silicones, UV filters, colorants, Niacinamide, and Yeast Extract that contribute to its texture, coverage, sun protection, and skin benefits. What is the general approach to incorporating these ingredients into a silicone-based water-in-silicone emulsion to achieve the desired properties?

Answer

Formulating a BB Base Similar to Sulwhasoo Snowise

Based on the forum discussion and ingredient analysis, particularly the insights from user 'cosmeceutical7' (C7), creating a BB base with a texture and effect similar to Sulwhasoo Snowise BB Base is achievable by focusing on key functional ingredients rather than relying solely on the numerous plant extracts listed.

The core components that contribute to the texture, coverage, sun protection, and likely the primary skin benefits are:

  • Silicones: These are crucial for achieving the smooth, easy-to-spread, non-sticky, and slightly matte yet radiant finish described. Cyclopentasiloxane is a primary base, often combined with silicone gels and emulsifiers like PEG-10 Dimethicone to create a stable water-in-silicone emulsion.
  • UV Filters: Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide provide physical sun protection (SPF/PA). Using coated versions helps them disperse well in the silicone base and reduces whitening.
  • Colorants: Iron Oxides (Red, Yellow, Black) are used to match the skin tone. These also need to be well-dispersed in the base.
  • Key Actives: According to C7, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Yeast Extract are the most likely ingredients providing significant skin benefits like brightening and improving skin health.
  • Humectants/Solvents: Butylene Glycol helps dissolve ingredients and provides some hydration.

While the original product lists many plant extracts, the expert opinion suggests their contribution to the primary effects might be less significant than the core functional ingredients.

To formulate a similar product, you would build a base primarily from silicones, incorporate the necessary UV filter powders and Iron Oxide colorants (ensuring they are well-dispersed), and then add the key active ingredients like Niacinamide and Yeast Extract, along with Butylene Glycol.

Here are some relevant ingredients available:

  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Consider using high-purity grades like Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) or Extreme-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide, Highest Purity).
  • Yeast Extract: Products like Yeast Radiance™ or MYFerment™ Balance (Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate) provide beneficial yeast-derived components.
  • Silicone Base & Emulsifier: Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone) can be used as the main volatile silicone. Silicone Gel (Thick & Smooth, Cyclopentasiloxane Base) or Silicone Gel 9040 (e.q. DC 9040, Cyclopentasiloxane Base) can help achieve the desired gel-cream texture. SiliSolve™ (PEG-10 Dimethicone, Odorless) is a suitable emulsifier for creating a water-in-silicone system.
  • UV Filters: Zinc Oxide (40nm, Triethoxycaprylylsilane Coated) and Titanium Dioxide 250nm SilkTouch™ (Dimethicone Treated) are coated powders that disperse well in silicone/oil phases, suitable for sun protection and coverage.
  • Butylene Glycol: Standard Butylene Glycol is available.
  • Iron Oxides: Red Iron Oxides EasyMix™, Iron Oxides Yellow (Ultra-fine, Methicone-Coated), and Iron Oxides Black (Ultra-fine, Methicone-Coated) can be blended to achieve the desired skin tone.
  • Ginseng-derived (Optional): If you wish to include ingredients related to the ginseng aspect mentioned in the original product, RareGinseng®-GF2 (Natural Retinol Replacement) or Gin-K™ (Compound K 500ppm Encapsulated Base) are options, though they are water-soluble and would need careful incorporation.

Formulating a stable silicone-based emulsion requires precise mixing, often involving adding the water phase very slowly to the silicone/oil phase containing the emulsifier while blending. Dispersing the powders (UV filters and Iron Oxides) evenly in the silicone/oil phase before emulsification is also key to achieving smooth texture and even color/protection.

As recommended by the staff in the forum, it is best to start with small test batches and refer to general BB cream or silicone-based foundation formulas as a starting point. Experimenting with the ratios of silicones, powders, and the water phase will be necessary to replicate the specific texture and coverage you desire.