Formulating a Clear Gel Lip Tint

Asked by: me_ok On: December 29, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to make a clear gel lip tint.

Here is my formula:

  • Squalene 5%
  • Isododecane 5%
  • Red Powder‎ (CI16255, CI14720) 1%
  • Propylene Glycol 5%
  • Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) 1%
  • WaterLock™ 1.5%
  • Water Remaining

Can this formula be used to make a gel lip tint? Is there anything wrong with it? What should I add or remove?

I want to make a simple gel tint that is not complicated and does not dry out the lips.

Answer

Clear Gel Lip Tint Formulation

Hello, regarding your question about gel lip tint formulas:

Issues with the Original Formulas

Formulas 1 and 2, which use Pro Polymer™ mixed with both water-based ingredients (Water, Propylene Glycol, WaterLock™) and oil-based ingredients (Squalene, Isododecane), will result in an emulsion (creamy texture), not a clear gel as desired. This is because Pro Polymer™ is a water-based gel maker and is not suitable for suspending pigments well in emulsion or oil-based formulas, which can lead to pigment settling over time. This aligns with the information provided by the staff.

Approach for Making a Clear Gel Lip Tint

If you want a clear gel lip tint that keeps pigments suspended and feels non-drying, you should choose a gelling agent specifically designed for an "oil system". This will help you achieve a clear gel texture that can effectively suspend Pigment colors.

Oil Gelling Agents for Clear Gels

Recommended oil gelling agents for creating a clear gel include:

  • Oil Thick™ Clear S: This is an oil gelling agent that creates a clear, thixotropic oil gel (becomes more liquid when shear force is applied, like when applied to lips). It is suitable for use with non-polar oils like Mineral Oil or some Ester oils.
  • Hectorite Gel™ (Isododecane Base): This is an oil gelling agent in an Isododecane base, suitable for suspending pigments in makeup products.

Choosing the Right Colorant

For a clear oil-based gel lip tint formula, you should use Pigment color types that disperse well in oil, such as ReadyMix™ D&C Red No.7 Lake (Oil Based), instead of water-soluble dyes like Red Powder‎ (CI16255, CI14720) used in your original formulas.

Sample Clear Gel Lip Tint Formula (Oil-Based)

Here is a basic sample formula you can adapt:

  • Isododecane: 60-70%
  • Squalene (Synthetic, For Lip Gloss): 5-10%
  • Oil Thick™ Clear S: 5-10% (Adjust for desired viscosity)
  • ReadyMix™ D&C Red No.7 Lake (Oil Based): 1-10% (Adjust for desired color intensity)
  • Other ingredients (e.g., preservative, fragrance): As appropriate

Basic Mixing Instructions (Using Oil Thick™ Clear S):

  1. Heat Isododecane and Squalene to approximately 80-90 degrees Celsius.
  2. Slowly sprinkle Oil Thick™ Clear S into the oil mixture while stirring/mixing, and continue stirring/mixing until the Oil Thick™ Clear S is completely dissolved. A clear gel will form.
  3. Add ReadyMix™ D&C Red No.7 Lake (Oil Based) and other ingredients. Stir/mix until uniformly dispersed.

This formula will help you achieve the desired clear gel texture, feel comfortable and non-drying on the lips, and keep the color evenly dispersed.