Formulating a Clear Toner with Hi-LiconeA™ and Tannic Acid for Eczema-Prone Skin

To create a clear toner using Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free) as the base with Hi-LiconeA™ Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 20%) and PoreNin™ (Natural Extracted Tannic Acid), you need to address the solubility of the licorice extract.

1. Achieving a Clear Product

Hi-LiconeA™ is a powder that is soluble in glycols but not soluble in water. Since your toner is primarily water-based (Witch Hazel), adding it directly will result in a cloudy mixture or precipitation.

To maintain clarity, follow these steps:

• Pre-dissolve the Extract: Mix Hi-LiconeA™ into a glycol, such as Propylene Glycol (USP), and stir until completely clear.
• Use a Solubilizer: Even after dissolving in glycol, adding the mixture to water may cause cloudiness. You should use a solubilizer like Flora Solve™ Clear to bridge the oil-soluble extract with the water phase. Mix the glycol-licorice solution with the solubilizer first before adding it to the Witch Hazel.
• Alternative Option: For a water-based toner, it is much easier to use Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%, Water-Soluble). This version is already in liquid form and dissolves directly into water/Witch Hazel without needing extra glycols or solubilizers.

2. Concentration for Eczema-Prone Skin

Regarding your question about the 0.5% concentration:

• Recommended Usage: The manufacturer recommends a usage rate of 0.1-0.3% for Hi-LiconeA™ (the 20% concentration version). Specifically, 0.3% is the recommended rate for addressing allergic rashes or eczema.
• Suitability of 0.5%: Using 0.5% is slightly higher than the maximum recommended dose (0.3%). While Licochalcone A is excellent for reducing inflammation and redness, eczema-prone skin is often highly sensitive. It is safer to stick to the 0.3% limit to avoid potential irritation from the high concentration of active compounds.

Suggested Formulation Guide (for 100g):

1. Water Phase:
   • Witch Hazel Water: 80-90% (as the solvent)
   • PoreNin™ (Tannic Acid): 0.1-0.5% (dissolve directly in the Witch Hazel)
2. Active Phase (Pre-mix):
   • Propylene Glycol: 3-5%
   • Hi-LiconeA™: 0.3% (for eczema)
   • Flora Solve™ Clear: 1-2% (to ensure clarity)
3. Mixing: Slowly add the Active Phase into the Water Phase while stirring.
4. pH Adjustment: Ensure the final pH of the formula is between 3.5 - 6.5 for the stability of the Licochalcone A.
5. Preservative: Don't forget to add a suitable broad-spectrum preservative if the Witch Hazel does not already contain enough to protect the entire formula.

Note: PoreNin™ (Tannic Acid) should be mixed at room temperature; avoid using heat as it can degrade the ingredient.