Formulating a Cream: Allantoin Concentration and Mixing Steps

Asked by: koy-0815 On: June 10, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I need guidance on formulating a cream using the following ingredients:

  • Water
  • Copper Peptide
  • Pepha-Tight
  • Allantoin
  • Centella Asiatica Extract
  • Vitamin B3
  • Cyclomethicone
  • Silicone Gel
  • Warp Cream Maker

Specifically, what is the recommended concentration limit for Allantoin based on the water content in the formula, and what are the correct mixing steps to achieve a stable cream texture?

Answer

Recommendations for Your Formula

Allantoin Concentration Adjustment

  • Allantoin should be used at a concentration not exceeding 0.5% of the water content in the formula.
  • Since your formula contains 55.5% water, the maximum recommended amount of Allantoin is 55.5% * 0.5% = 0.275% of the total formula.
  • The staff suggested using around 0.2% for easier measurement.

Correct Mixing Steps

Divide the ingredients into two phases and mix according to these steps:

  • Phase A: Mix Water, Copper Peptide, Pepha-Tight, Allantoin, Centella Asiatica Extract, and Vitamin B3 together. Do not use heat for this phase.
    • Ensure Allantoin is fully dissolved (gentle warming might be needed if using close to the maximum limit, but at 0.2% it should dissolve in 55.5% water at room temperature).
    • Once the mixture is below 40°C, add Copper Peptide and Vitamin B3, and adjust the pH to their stable range (Copper Peptide at pH 4.5-7.4, Vitamin B3 at pH 3-8).
  • Phase B: Mix Cyclomethicone, Silicone Gel, and Warp Cream Maker together.
    • Apply heat and stir thoroughly to combine (if there are any waxy ingredients, melt them into this phase).
    • Turn off the heat and let this mixture cool down to below 40°C.
  • Combining Phases: Gradually add Phase A into Phase B little by little while blending with a high-speed blender (at least 1000 rpm, as recommended for Warp Cream Maker). Continue blending until the mixture is homogeneous and the cream texture forms.

Adjusting according to these recommendations will help the ingredients combine well and achieve the desired cream texture.