Gel Facial Cleanser Formulation Advice

Here is some advice on formulating a gel facial cleanser based on your questions and the previous suggestions:

1. Increasing Foam

To increase the foam in your gel cleanser, you can incorporate gentle, high-foaming surfactants. Good options include:

• Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate: This is a gentle, amino acid-derived surfactant known for producing rich, creamy foam. It was mentioned in the previous suggestion as "Creamy Foamer".
• Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (IseFoam™): Another gentle surfactant that creates good lather, similar to the "BabyFoam" suggested previously.
• Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate and Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate: These are also amino acid-derived surfactants that provide good foam while being mild.

Combining different types of gentle surfactants can often result in a better foam quality and feel than using a single surfactant at a high concentration.

2. Addressing Dryness and Adding Moisture

Yes, increasing the amount of surfactant, especially harsher ones, can lead to dryness. To counteract this and achieve a clean, moisturized feel:

• Choose Gentle Surfactants: Prioritize the mild, amino acid-derived surfactants mentioned above (Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate) as they are less likely to strip the skin's natural moisture barrier compared to harsher sulfates.
• Add Moisturizing Ingredients: Include humectants like Glycerin (general knowledge, not a specific product searched) or gentle emollient esters. LipidSoft™ Lactic (C12-13 Alkyl Lactate) is an example of an ester derived from Lactic Acid that can help moisturize the skin and reduce irritation.

3. Exfoliation for Skin Clarity

To help the skin look clear and clean by promoting cell turnover, you can add exfoliating ingredients suitable for a rinse-off gel format. Both AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids) can be used:

• AHAs: Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid are common AHAs. Lactic Acid (AHA 88%) and Glycolic Acid (Glycopure™) help exfoliate the skin surface, improving texture and tone. Ensure the final product pH is appropriate for the AHA to be effective and safe (typically below 4.0, but check FDA guidelines).
• BHAs: Salicylic Acid (BHA) is oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate pores and help with congestion and clarity. For a gel cleanser, consider water-soluble or easily dispersible forms like SalicSoft® (Betaine Salicylate), Liquid Salicylic Acid (40% Active Salicylic, Cationic For Wash-Off), or ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble). These forms are easier to incorporate into water-based gel formulas and are effective in rinse-off products.

When incorporating exfoliants, start with lower concentrations and consider the overall pH of your final formulation to ensure efficacy and minimize irritation, especially in a wash-off product.