Formula Review for Oily, Dehydrated Skin with Dark Spots and Seborrheic Dermatitis

Based on your formula and the discussion, here is a review focusing on hydration, dark spots, and suitability for your skin condition:

1. Should anything be added or reduced?

Your formula contains several good ingredients for hydration and dark spots. The Staff's advice was to keep the formula relatively simple when starting out and that your current selection is sufficient. They specifically recommended using a gel base with a pro polymer instead of Hyaluronic Acid for oily skin, even if dehydrated, as it provides a lighter feel. If you prefer a lighter texture, you might consider this suggestion. Otherwise, the current ingredients are suitable for addressing your concerns.

Your current percentages seem reasonable for the ingredients included, keeping in mind the Staff's comment about Allantoin usage relative to water, though your 0.5g in 81g water is approximately 0.6%, which is within the recommended range (0.1-2.0%, with 0.5% being a common recommendation for water solubility at room temperature).

Adding more ingredients like Natural Moisturizing Amino Acid, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Urea, or Beta Glucan, while beneficial, might make the formula too complex initially, as advised by the Staff.

2. Will Licorice Extract aggravate seborrheic dermatitis?

Both the forum reply and the Staff's comment indicate that Licorice Extract is unlikely to trigger seborrheic dermatitis. In fact, Licorice Extract (specifically the Licochalcone A type) is known for its anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties, which can help soothe the skin and reduce redness, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin conditions like seborrheic dermatitis. You should be able to use it continuously without concern for aggravating your condition.

Regarding the pH of Licorice Extract, the Staff clarified that you do not need to adjust the pH of your formula. Skin tolerates a pH range of 4.5-7 well, and the pH of the water-soluble Licorice Extract (3.9-5.9) is within a suitable range for cosmetic formulations.

3. Can N-acetyl Glucosamine alone address dark spots?

N-acetyl Glucosamine (GlucoBright™) is effective for reducing hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Its effectiveness is enhanced when used in combination with Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), both of which are present in your formula. This combination is well-supported by research for its ability to improve skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots. Given your concern about using other ingredients that might affect your seborrheic dermatitis, relying on the combination of N-acetyl Glucosamine and Niacinamide in your current formula is a good approach for targeting dark spots without introducing potentially irritating ingredients.

In summary, your proposed formula contains beneficial ingredients for hydration and dark spots. While the Staff suggested a lighter base for oily skin, your current ingredient list is considered sufficient for your goals. Licorice Extract is safe for seborrheic dermatitis, and the combination of N-acetyl Glucosamine and Niacinamide is effective for dark spots.