Formulating a Gel Serum with DMAE, Sesaflash, Vitamins, and Peptides: Mixing and Compatibility
คำถาม
I am formulating a gel serum and need guidance on incorporating several ingredients, specifically:
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
- Sesaflash
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
- Vitamin C (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate)
My existing formula already includes Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3), Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule), Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®), Cera-Flux V (Ceramide Complex), and Sea Kelp Extract.
Could you please provide detailed instructions on:
- How to properly add each of the new ingredients (DMAE, Sesaflash, Vitamin E, Vitamin C) to the existing gel serum base?
- Are there any compatibility issues or specific mixing procedures required when combining these ingredients, particularly concerning pH levels and the stability of ingredients like Argireline® and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate?
- What is the recommended overall mixing procedure for all the ingredients to ensure a stable and effective gel serum?
คำตอบ
Formulation Guidance for Your Gel Serum
Based on your questions and the staff's advice, here's how you can incorporate additional ingredients into your gel serum formulation and other important considerations:
Adding DMAE and Sesaflash
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: This ingredient can be dissolved in water. However, as the staff mentioned, DMAE is acidic and can affect the stability of ingredients like Argireline®. It should be added in the final step, after the mixture has cooled below 40°C. After adding DMAE, you must check and adjust the pH of the final product to be in the range of 5.5-6.5 using a pH adjuster like Triethanolamine 99%. This pH range is crucial for the stability of Argireline®.
- Sesaflash: The staff advised adding Sesaflash in the final step as well. It is a liquid that dissolves easily in water.
Incorporating Vitamin E and Vitamin C
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): Since this is an oil-soluble ingredient, you cannot simply add it to the water-based gel. As the staff suggested, you need an emulsifier such as Light Cream Maker. You would typically mix the Vitamin E with the Light Cream Maker separately first, and then incorporate this mixture into your water phase before the gel forms.
- Vitamin C (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate): The staff recommended Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) as a stable, water-soluble form of Vitamin C suitable for this type of formula. It can be dissolved in the water phase. However, it is very important to note the pH requirements. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is most stable and effective in a pH range of 7-9. This conflicts with the optimal pH range for Argireline® (3.5-6.5) and the required pH adjustment (5.5-6.5) if using DMAE. Combining Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate with Argireline® and/or DMAE in the same formula while maintaining optimal stability for all ingredients is challenging. You may need to prioritize which active ingredients are most important for your desired outcome or consider making separate formulations.
General Mixing Steps (Consolidated)
Considering all the ingredients discussed, a general mixing approach could be:
- Prepare your distilled water.
- Dissolve water-soluble powders like Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3) and Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule). Follow the specific instructions for dissolving Hyaluronic Acid, including chilling and shaking until fully dissolved.
- If adding Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, dissolve it in this water phase. Keep in mind the pH conflict mentioned above.
- If adding oil-soluble Vitamin E, mix it separately with Light Cream Maker.
- Combine the water phase (from step 2 or 3) with the oil/emulsifier mixture (from step 4) if applicable, mixing until your desired gel or light cream texture is achieved.
- Allow the mixture to cool down to below 40°C.
- Gently mix in heat-sensitive and liquid ingredients: Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®), Cera-Flux V (Ceramide Complex), Sea Kelp Extract, DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid, and Sesaflash.
- If you included DMAE and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, check the pH and adjust it to 5.5-6.5 using Triethanolamine 99%.
- Add your preservative.
- Mix thoroughly until homogeneous.
Packaging and Storage
- Raw Materials: Powder ingredients typically come in plastic bottles, and liquid/gel ingredients in vials, both usually sealed.
- Finished Product: The mixed gel serum should be stored in the refrigerator and can last for at least 6 months. Unused raw materials should be stored according to the instructions on their packaging, noting their individual expiry dates and recommended storage conditions (some require refrigeration, others room temperature away from heat and light).
By following these guidelines, you can create a customized gel serum with the desired properties, keeping in mind the compatibility of active ingredients, especially regarding pH levels.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Sea Kelp Extract
Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule, 1M Daltons)
Pure-Ferulic Acid™
Triethanolamine 99%
Light Cream Maker™
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid