Formulating a Non-Sticky Plumping Lip Gloss: Colorants and Active Ingredients

Question

I want to make a plumping lip gloss using the best possible ingredients, ensuring it is not too sticky, provides a visible plumping effect, is nourishing, and allows for easy mixing of colorants.

My current formulation is as follows:

Oil gel base: 80%
Lipidsoft: 9%
Caprylyl Methicone: 8%
Methyl Nicotinate or InstantPlump: 0.05 - 1.0%

I have the following questions:

Colorants: What type of colorant is best for this oil-based formula (compatible with oils or silicones)? Can I use ReadyMix products, or are Lake colorants better? To achieve a desired color (e.g., using D&C Red No.7 Lake), do I need to mix it with a white colorant to adjust the shade, as I don't see a white option from D&C?
Nourishing Ingredients: For nourishment, should I use LipX-Baby or LipX-Volu? Which would be more suitable for a plumping lip gloss?
Plumping Actives: Between Methyl Nicotinate and InstantPlump, which is the best option for achieving the best results?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

To create a high-quality, non-sticky, and effective plumping lip gloss, here are the recommendations based on your formulation and questions:

1. Colorants for Oil-Based Gloss

For an oil and silicone-based formula, ReadyMix™ is significantly better than raw Lake powders.

Why ReadyMix™? Raw Lake colorants are powders that require high-shear grinding (using a triple-roll mill or homogenizer) to prevent "speckling" or uneven color. ReadyMix™ D&C Red No.7 Lake is already pre-dispersed in a high-quality ester base (Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate), allowing you to achieve a perfectly smooth, professional finish by simply stirring it into your oil gel.
The Role of White: Yes, to achieve specific shades (like pinks or "milky" reds) and to provide opacity, you should mix your primary color with ReadyMix™ White (Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate Base). D&C Red 7 alone is a deep, transparent red; adding white allows you to control the "depth" and "creaminess" of the color.

2. Nourishing & Long-term Plumping

Both products offer benefits, but they serve different purposes:

LipX™-Volu (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38): This is the best choice for a "Plumping" theme. While your immediate plumper (Methyl Nicotinate) works by increasing blood flow, LipX™-Volu works long-term by stimulating collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis to increase lip volume and smooth fine lines.
LipX®-Baby: This is focused on deep nourishment and mimicking the soft texture of baby skin using 23 amino acids.
Recommendation: Use LipX™-Volu at 0.5% for the "Volumizing" claim. If you want maximum nourishment, you can combine both, as they are both compatible with oil-based formulas.

3. Immediate Plumping: Methyl Nicotinate vs. InstantPlump™

InstantPlump™ is the trade name for 100% pure Methyl Nicotinate powder. They are the same active ingredient.

Effectiveness: It is the most effective ingredient for immediate, visible plumping (vasodilation).
Usage Warning: Your mentioned range of 0.05-1.0% is quite high. The recommended usage rate for InstantPlump™ is 0.1%. At 1.0%, it may cause an intense burning sensation or excessive redness for many users. It is best to start at 0.1% and test the sensation before increasing.
Processing: It should be dissolved in the oil phase. If using Fractionated Coconut Oil Gel, you may need to gently heat the mixture (not exceeding 80°C) to ensure the powder is fully dissolved.

Suggested Refined Formulation

Fractionated Coconut Oil Gel: 80% (Base)
Lipidsoft (Emollient): 9%
Caprylyl Methicone: 8% (Reduces stickiness and improves spreadability)
InstantPlump™: 0.1% (Immediate plumping)
LipX™-Volu: 0.5% (Long-term volume/Nourishing)
ReadyMix™ Colors: 2.4% (Adjust as needed for desired shade)

Note on Stickiness: Your use of Caprylyl Methicone is excellent for reducing the natural stickiness of the oil gel base, providing a "silky" rather than "tacky" feel.