Formulating a Powerful Whitening Oil Serum

Asked by: Anonymous On: February 04, 2026 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to make a whitening oil serum. This is the ingredient list I want to use:

  • Squalane oil: 50%
  • Saffron oil: 15%
  • Apricot oil: 28%
  • Bakuchiol: 1%
  • Sea buckthorn extract: 1%
  • Symwhite: 0.5%
  • Kojic acid: 1%
  • Natural Bisabolol: 1%
  • Q 10 enzyme: 1%
  • White cumin: 0.5%
  • Vitamin E: 1%
  • Phenoxy ethanol: 1%

Is my serum powerful for whitening skin?

Answer

Your whitening oil serum formula is indeed very powerful. It combines several high-performance brightening agents that target skin pigmentation through different pathways. However, there are a few critical technical adjustments needed to ensure the ingredients dissolve properly and the formula remains stable.

1. Formula Analysis & Adjustments

  • Kojic Acid vs. Kojic Acid Dipalmitate: Standard Kojic Acid is water-soluble and will not dissolve in your oil-only (anhydrous) serum. You must use Kojic Acid Dipalmitate, which is the oil-soluble version. It is also more stable in cosmetic formulations.
  • Coenzyme Q10 Dosage: You listed 1%, but the recommended usage for Coenzyme Q10 (98% Powder) is typically 0.01-0.5%. Using 1% may make the serum extremely yellow/orange and could potentially stain the skin or clothing. We recommend reducing this to 0.2-0.5%.
  • Whitening Synergy: The combination of SymWhite™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol), WhiteCumin™ (Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane), and Kojic Acid Dipalmitate is exceptionally strong. Natural Bisabolol further supports this by reducing irritation and helping to inhibit melanin production.
  • Preservative: In a 100% oil-based formula, a preservative like Phenoxyethanol is not strictly necessary unless you expect water to get into the bottle. However, Vitamin E is essential (as you have included) to prevent the natural oils (Saffron, Apricot, Sea Buckthorn) from going rancid.

2. Recommended Revised Formula (100%)

  • Squalane (Olive): 50% (Excellent carrier oil that mimics skin sebum)
  • Saffron Oil: 15%
  • Apricot Kernel Oil: 27.8% (Adjusted to balance the total)
  • Pure-Bakuchiol™: 1% (Natural retinol alternative for skin renewal)
  • Sea Buckthorn Oil: 1% (High in antioxidants)
  • SymWhite™ (Phenylethyl Resorcinol): 0.5% (Potent whitener)
  • Kojic Acid Dipalmitate: 1% (Oil-soluble whitening agent)
  • Natural Bisabolol: 1% (Soothing and brightening support)
  • Coenzyme Q10 (98%): 0.2% (Antioxidant and skin repair)
  • WhiteCumin™: 0.5% (Powerful antioxidant and brightening agent)
  • Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 1% (Antioxidant for skin and formula stability)
  • Phenoxyethanol: 1% (Optional for anhydrous formulas)

3. Mixing Instructions

Since your formula contains several powders, you must follow a specific heating process:

  1. Heat the Oil Phase: Combine Squalane, Apricot Oil, and Saffron Oil. Heat the mixture to approximately 60-80°C.
  2. Dissolve the Powders: Add Kojic Acid Dipalmitate, SymWhite™, and WhiteCumin™ into the hot oil. Stir until completely clear and dissolved.
  3. Cool Down: Allow the mixture to cool to below 50-60°C.
  4. Add Heat-Sensitive Actives: Add Coenzyme Q10, Bakuchiol, Sea Buckthorn Oil, Natural Bisabolol, Vitamin E, and Phenoxyethanol. Stir well.
  5. Storage: Store in a light-protected (amber or opaque) bottle, as Q10 and many natural oils are sensitive to light.

Note on Color: Your final serum will be a deep yellow or orange color due to the Sea Buckthorn oil, Saffron oil, and Coenzyme Q10. This is normal for these high-potency ingredients.