Formulating a Salicylic Acid Cleanser for Acne
Question
How can I formulate a wash-off facial cleanser or face wash containing Salicylic Acid for acne treatment? I've heard it's difficult to include Salicylic Acid in bar soap; what are the challenges, and what types of water-soluble Salicylic Acid are suitable for liquid wash-off products? What are the recommended usage rates and pH considerations?
Answer
Making Acne Cleanser with Salicylic Acid
Yes, it is possible to make a wash-off product like a liquid cleanser or face wash containing salicylic acid for acne treatment. While making traditional bar soap with salicylic acid can be challenging due to the high pH of the saponification process, creating a liquid cleanser is a more common and practical approach.
Salicylic acid is effective in acne products because it helps to exfoliate the skin and dissolve clogged pores.
For formulating a salicylic acid cleanser, it is recommended to use water-soluble forms of salicylic acid that are suitable for wash-off products. Some suitable types include:
- Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off): This liquid form is specifically designed for wash-off products and offers timed-release for gentler action.
- Liquid Salicylic Acid (40% Active Salicylic, Cationic For Wash-Off): Another liquid, water-soluble option that is easy to mix and designed for wash-off formulas.
- Complex Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble): A water-soluble powder form.
- ActiveRelease™ Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble): A water-soluble powder with timed-release properties.
- Acacia Salicylic Acid: A water-soluble powder that helps reduce irritation.
- Willow Bark Extract (Natural Salicylic Acid): A natural, water-soluble liquid source of salicylic acid.
The typical usage rate for salicylic acid in cosmetic products applied to the skin (including wash-off) is generally up to 2% active salicylic acid, in accordance with regulations.
As previously suggested, combining the concept of a BHA toner (which contains salicylic acid) with a gentle liquid soap base is a good way to approach formulating a salicylic acid face wash.
When formulating, ensure the pH of the final product is appropriate for salicylic acid efficacy and skin compatibility, typically in an acidic range (around pH 4-5 is often targeted for efficacy, though compatibility with the soap base needs consideration, and wash-off products have more flexibility). Always follow recommended usage rates for the specific type of salicylic acid used.
Related Products Mentioned
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)