Formulating Alcohol-Water Gel with Oil: Emulsification Challenges

Asked by: sroydondon On: November 25, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on the following formula:

1. Ethyl Alcohol 15%
2. Substance dissolved in alcohol 20%
3. AnyGel 5%
4. Distilled Water (rest)

I have two questions:

a. Could you recommend an emulsifier for water and alcohol?
b. If I want to add Jojoba Oil 10% to this formula, how should I mix it?

Answer

Formulation Advice for Alcohol-Water Gel with Oil

Here's some advice regarding your formulation:

a. Emulsifying Water and Alcohol

In your formula, water and ethyl alcohol are miscible, meaning they can mix together without needing a traditional emulsifier like those used for oil and water. AnyGel (Dehydroxanthan Gum) acts as a gelling agent that thickens the water phase and helps create a stable structure to hold the alcohol and water together in a gel form.

If you are experiencing separation, it might be related to the "substance dissolved in alcohol" rather than the alcohol and water themselves. Ensure that this substance is compatible with the water/alcohol/AnyGel gel base.

b. Incorporating 10% Jojoba Oil

Adding 10% Jojoba Oil to your water/alcohol gel requires an emulsifier to create a stable oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion within the gel matrix. Without an emulsifier, the oil will separate from the water/alcohol phase.

Based on the search, Emulsifying Wax 1000 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20) is an O/W emulsifier that could potentially be used. Its typical usage involves mixing it into the oil phase and heating both the oil and water phases before combining them to form an emulsion.

However, incorporating oil into a formula with significant alcohol content (like yours) can be challenging:

  • Traditional emulsifiers like Emulsifying Wax 1000 often require heating, which is problematic with volatile and flammable alcohol.
  • High concentrations of alcohol can sometimes destabilize emulsions.

Suggested Approach (General):

  1. Choose a suitable emulsifier: While Emulsifying Wax 1000 is an option, you might consider looking for emulsifiers specifically designed for cold processing or those known to be stable in alcohol-containing systems.
  2. Prepare Phases:
    • Water Phase: Combine water, ethyl alcohol, the substance dissolved in alcohol, and AnyGel. Mix well to form the gel.
    • Oil Phase: Combine Jojoba Oil with the chosen emulsifier. If using Emulsifying Wax 1000, you would typically heat this phase (and the water phase) to melt the wax and aid emulsification, but this needs careful consideration due to the alcohol. For alcohol-containing formulas, a cold-processable emulsifier is highly recommended if available.
  3. Combine Phases: Slowly add the oil phase to the water phase while stirring continuously. High shear mixing (like with a homogenizer or high-speed mixer) is often necessary to create a fine, stable emulsion.
  4. Cool and Thicken: If heating was involved, cool the mixture while continuing to stir. The AnyGel will also contribute to the final gel consistency as it hydrates and swells.

Given the complexity of emulsifying oil in an alcohol-water gel, especially with heating considerations, selecting an appropriate emulsifier is crucial. Look for emulsifiers that are compatible with alcohol and suitable for your desired processing method (cold vs. hot).

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