Formulating Anti-aging Serum: Dissolution, Stability, and Mixing Challenges

Asked by: justchin7 On: July 05, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating an anti-aging serum using Silky Serum Base Plus and including the following ingredients:

  • Retinal (Retinaldehyde) 0.1%
  • Protec™ OX 0.05%
  • Methylsilanol Mannuronate
  • Repair Activator
  • Pro-Cysteine
  • Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer
  • Sebum-Reg
  • Nano Silver Pure
  • 1,2-Hexanediol
  • Phospholipid
  • Protec UV
  • Protec SQ
  • Water
  • Sodium Hydroxide / Lactic Acid (AHA) 88% (for pH adjustment)

I understand that Retinal and Protec OX are powders and require a solvent. Please provide guidance on the formulation process, specifically addressing:

  1. How to properly dissolve Retinal and Protec OX.
  2. The recommended mixing procedure, including equipment needed.
  3. How to adjust the pH for optimal stability and efficacy of Retinal and Sebum-Reg.
  4. Potential stability issues, such as Nano Silver settling and Retinal degradation, and how to mitigate them.

Answer

Analysis of Your Revised Anti-Aging Serum Formula

Thank you for providing your revised formula. Based on the ingredients and your goals, here is an analysis:

Feasibility, Compatibility, and Stability

  • Feasibility: The formula is technically feasible but will be challenging to produce, especially for beginners. The mixing process requires specific techniques and equipment (like a blender) to ensure ingredients are properly dissolved and emulsified.
  • Compatibility: The ingredients are generally compatible. However, careful pH adjustment is crucial for the stability and effectiveness of ingredients like Retinal and Sebum-Reg. The formula contains both acidic (Pro-Cysteine, Lactic Acid) and alkaline (Sodium Hydroxide) components, requiring precise balancing. Phospholipid needs to be dispersed at room temperature.
  • Stability: Retinal is sensitive to light and heat. While the Protec series helps, the mixing method for dissolving Retinal and Protec OX (which are powders) is critical. Nano Silver Pure, being a paste, has a potential for settling over time in a serum texture, even with thickeners.

Expected Results

Based on the active ingredients included, this formula is expected to provide:

  • Anti-aging benefits: Retinal is a potent ingredient for reducing wrinkles and improving skin texture. Methylsilanol Mannuronate aims to provide lifting and firming effects. Repair Activator supports skin repair processes. Pro-Cysteine may offer antioxidant or skin strengthening benefits.
  • Oil control and acne reduction: Sebum-Reg is included to help reduce excess oiliness and inhibit acne-causing bacteria. Retinal can also contribute to improving acne and skin clarity.
  • Hydration: Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer and 1,2-Hexanediol will help attract and retain moisture in the skin.
  • Skin Feel: The Silky Serum Base Plus, 1,2-Hexanediol, and Phospholipid should contribute to a light, soft, and fast-absorbing serum texture, suitable for slightly oily skin.

Recommended Adjustments and Considerations

  1. Dissolving Retinal and Protec OX: As noted in previous feedback, Retinal and Protec OX are powders and require a suitable solvent for proper dispersion in the oil phase. It is recommended to add PPG-3 Myristyl Ether at approximately 3% to the oil phase (Silky Serum Base Plus, Protec UV, Protec SQ). Mix these oil-soluble ingredients together and heat gently (60-70°C) to help dissolve Protec OX. Once dissolved, let the mixture cool slightly before adding Retinal and blending quickly to minimize heat exposure to Retinal.
  2. Mixing Process: After preparing the oil phase (with dissolved Retinal and Protec OX), prepare the water phase by dissolving all water-soluble ingredients (Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Repair Activator, Pro-Cysteine, Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer, Sebum-Reg, Nano Silver Pure, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phospholipid, Water, and pH adjusters). Note that Phospholipid should be dispersed at room temperature. Slowly add the water phase to the oil phase while blending continuously with a high-shear mixer to form the serum emulsion.
  3. pH Adjustment: The pH of the final formula is critical for the stability and efficacy of Retinal (optimal pH 3.5-6.5) and Sebum-Reg (optimal pH 4-6). After the serum is fully formed, measure the pH and adjust it to the target range of 4-6 using Sodium Hydroxide or Lactic Acid (AHA) 88% as needed. This requires careful, incremental addition and pH testing.
  4. Nano Silver Settling: While the formula includes thickeners, Nano Silver Pure is a paste and may still settle over time, especially in a relatively low-viscosity serum. Ensuring thorough dispersion during mixing is key. If settling remains a significant issue, you might consider slightly increasing the concentration of water-phase thickeners (like Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer) or reducing the Nano Silver concentration, although this would impact its preservative effectiveness.
  5. Protec SQ Color: Using Protec SQ at 3% is less likely to cause excessive yellowing compared to 5%, but it may still impart a slight yellow tint to the final product.

This revised formula addresses some previous points and incorporates beneficial actives for your goals. However, the mixing process and ensuring long-term stability of the Nano Silver dispersion and Retinal efficacy due to pH and potential heat exposure during mixing are the main challenges.