Formulation Concept for Anti-Wrinkle and Skin Strengthening Cream/Serum with Centella Asiatica

To produce a cream or serum focused on wrinkle reduction and skin strengthening using Centella Asiatica Extract, specifically the Madecassoside 90% concentration, is an excellent approach. Centella Asiatica derivatives are well-regarded for their skin benefits.

Key Ingredient: Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%)

This highly concentrated extract is known to stimulate the production of both Type I and Type III collagen, which are crucial for skin structure and elasticity. By boosting collagen synthesis, it helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and tighten the skin. Additionally, Madecassoside has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe the skin and reduce redness, contributing to a stronger, healthier skin barrier. It can also help reduce melanin pigmentation caused by inflammation from UV exposure.

• Recommended Usage: 0.1-2% (typically 1% is recommended).
• Mixing: Add in the final step of your formulation. Avoid exposing it to heat. The ideal pH range for the final product is 4-6.5.
• Solubility: Disperses in the formula or dissolves in water up to 1.0% w/v.

Complementary Centella Derivatives

Other forms of Centella Asiatica extract can also be incorporated or considered for their synergistic or specific benefits:

• ActiveRelease™ Centella Asiatica: A blend of Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Asiaticoside, and Madecassoside. This encapsulated form offers enhanced absorption and stability, providing comprehensive wound healing, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, barrier repair, hydration, and anti-aging benefits. It is water-soluble and can withstand heat during mixing.
• Centella Acids (Madecassic acid, Asiatic acid, 90%): A combination focusing on Madecassic and Asiatic acids, known for their potent skin soothing and anti-inflammatory effects. Soluble in ethanol and glycols.
• Pure-TECA™ Centella Asiatica Extract (TECA 95%, CICA): Contains Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, and Asiatic Acid. Highly effective for anti-inflammatory and anti-irritation properties. Requires dissolving in glycols with heat initially, but add to the final formula without heat.
• Asiaticoside (90%, Powder), Madecassic acid (85%, Powder), Asiatic acid (95%, Powder): These individual high-purity compounds offer specific benefits like wound healing, collagen stimulation, antioxidant activity, and anti-inflammatory effects. They are soluble in glycols and should be mixed into formulations without heat above 40°C.
• LipX®-Centella Oil: An oil-soluble option containing a blend of Centella actives, suitable for oil-based formulations like balms or body oils, providing anti-inflammation, collagen stimulation, and brightening.

Formulation Considerations

When formulating a cream or serum, you can use Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%) as a core active ingredient. Depending on the desired texture and additional benefits, you can combine it with other anti-aging ingredients like peptides, antioxidants (e.g., Vitamin C, Vitamin E), and hydrating components (e.g., Hyaluronic Acid, Glycerin). Ensure compatibility of ingredients and follow the mixing instructions and pH requirements for optimal stability and efficacy.

For a water-based serum, Madecassoside 90% is suitable due to its water dispersibility. For a cream or lotion, it can be incorporated into the water phase or added during the cooling phase. ActiveRelease™ Centella Asiatica is particularly easy to incorporate into water-based formulas due to its solubility and heat stability.

Developing a specific formula requires careful consideration of all ingredients and their percentages to achieve the desired performance and stability. You can start with a base cream or serum formula and incorporate the Centella Asiatica extract at the recommended usage rate.