Formulating Cleansing Oil: Addressing Pore Clogging and Makeup Removal
Question
I am interested in formulating a Cleansing Oil. I understand that the formula involves using oils to dissolve makeup and an emulsifier to rinse it off. Could you explain the characteristics of a Cleansing Oil formula, particularly regarding the use of ingredients like Ethylhexyl palmitate (LipidSoft™ Palm)? I am concerned about whether it might cause clogged pores. Could you also elaborate on how Ethylhexyl palmitate is effective at dissolving various makeup types, including pigments, powders, waxes, and silicones, and provide guidance on how to formulate a Cleansing Oil, perhaps using Oilsify 15 as the emulsifier?
Answer
Creating Your Own Cleansing Oil
A cleansing oil formula primarily works by using oils to dissolve makeup and impurities, and then an emulsifier to allow the oil and dissolved substances to be rinsed away cleanly with water.
Key Components
Base Oil(s): These are the main ingredients that dissolve makeup.
- LipidSoft™ Palm (Ethylhexyl palmitate): As seen in the original formula and recommended by the staff, this is a popular choice. It's effective at dissolving various types of makeup, including pigments, powders, waxes, and silicones. The staff and product description clarify that despite its potential to clog pores in leave-on products, it does not cause this issue in a wash-off cleansing oil because it is rinsed off immediately. It also provides a good feel and is economical.
- Other Oils: You can use LipidSoft™ Palm as your primary oil or blend it with other cosmetic-grade oils like Triethylhexanoin (also in the original formula) or other light emollients depending on the desired texture and feel.
Emulsifier: This is crucial for the cleansing oil to emulsify with water and rinse off without leaving a greasy residue.
- Oilsify 15: The staff specifically recommended Oilsify 15. Its product description confirms it's designed for cleansing oils and is effective at emulsifying makeup for easy rinsing. The typical usage rate for Oilsify 15 is 5-20%, with 10-15% being recommended. The example formula provided in the Oilsify 15 description uses 15% Oilsify 15 and 84.8% LipidSoft™ Palm.
Modifying the Formula
You can create a simple yet effective cleansing oil by combining a base oil and an emulsifier.
- Basic Formula Structure: A common approach is to use 80-90% base oil(s) and 10-20% emulsifier.
- Using Recommended Ingredients: A good starting point based on the staff's advice and product information would be to combine LipidSoft™ Palm as your base oil and Oilsify 15 as your emulsifier. You can follow the example ratio from the Oilsify 15 description (around 15% Oilsify 15 and 85% LipidSoft™ Palm) and adjust slightly based on how well it rinses for you.
- Adding Other Ingredients:
- Humectants: Ingredients like Glycerin or Butylene Glycol can be added in small amounts (e.g., 1-5%) for a slightly more hydrating feel, although the primary function of a cleansing oil is cleansing, not moisturizing.
- Plant Extracts: The original formula includes several plant extracts. While you can add these, as the staff noted, their benefits might be minimal in a product that is quickly washed off compared to a leave-on serum or cream.
- Preservative: If you include any water in your formula (which is not typical for a pure cleansing oil but might be present in small amounts from extracts or if you create a microemulsion as shown in the Oilsify 15 description), you must include a preservative like Phenoxyethanol. For a simple oil + emulsifier blend without added water, a preservative is generally not needed.
Important Considerations
- Emulsifier Ratio: The percentage of emulsifier relative to the oil phase is key. Too little, and the oil won't rinse off properly. Too much, and it might feel too stripping or change the texture. Start with the recommended range and test.
- Mixing: Typically, you can simply mix the oil phase and the emulsifier together until uniform. If adding other ingredients like extracts or humectants, you might need to mix them into the oil or water phase separately before combining, depending on their solubility.
By using LipidSoft™ Palm as your base oil and Oilsify 15 as your emulsifier, you can create a cleansing oil similar in concept and performance to the one described, while being able to adjust the ratios and add optional ingredients to suit your preference.
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