Formulating with 20% Liquid Azelaic™

It sounds like you are working with Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™), which is a water-soluble form (Potassium azeloyl diglycinate). You are trying to formulate a cream with a high concentration of 20%, which is above the recommended usage rate of 5-10% for this ingredient. Formulating at higher concentrations can be more challenging.

Liquid Azelaic™ should be added to your formulation in the final step, once the temperature is below 40°C. It works best within a pH range of 5-11.

Here are some approaches and emulsifiers/thickeners that could help you create a stable cream or lotion base to incorporate the Liquid Azelaic™:

• Using Traditional Emulsifiers (Hot Process): You can create a standard oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion using emulsifiers like Milk Lotion Maker™, Sucrose Cream Maker™, or Emulsifying Wax 1000. These emulsifiers typically require heating the oil and water phases separately and then combining them while mixing. Once your base emulsion is formed and has cooled down to below 40°C, you can then add the 20% Liquid Azelaic™ and mix thoroughly until uniform.

• Using Cold Process Thickeners/Stabilizers: Ingredients like CreamMaker EG™ can be easier to work with when incorporating heat-sensitive actives like Liquid Azelaic™. CreamMaker EG™ acts as a thickener and stabilizer and can be added to the water phase (or oil phase) without needing high heat. You could create a thickened water phase or a simple base emulsion at room temperature and then add the Liquid Azelaic™.

General Tips for Formulating:

1. Start with a Base: Create your cream or lotion base first using your chosen emulsifier/thickener, oils, water, etc.
2. Cool Down: Ensure your base is below 40°C before adding the Liquid Azelaic™.
3. Add Liquid Azelaic™: Slowly add the 20% Liquid Azelaic™ to the cooled base while mixing.
4. Mix Thoroughly: Continue mixing until the Liquid Azelaic™ is fully dispersed and the cream is uniform.
5. Check pH: Verify the final pH of your product is within the 5-11 range for optimal stability and efficacy of the Liquid Azelaic™.
6. Consider Lower Concentration: If you continue to face difficulties, try formulating successfully with the recommended 10% concentration first before attempting 20%.

Using a suitable emulsifier or thickener that can handle the addition of a high percentage of a water-soluble active at a lower temperature is key. CreamMaker EG™ might offer more flexibility due to its cold-process compatibility.