Formulating Facial Soap for Acne, Sensitive Skin, and Brightening

Question

I am developing a facial soap formulation for acne-prone and sensitive skin, aiming for skin brightening. I am considering using ingredients like Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), AHA (Glycolic Acid), and White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™) for whitening and acne treatment. I plan to use Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Wash as surfactants.

Could you advise on the suitability and effectiveness of these ingredients in a wash-off soap format for my target concerns (acne, sensitive skin, whitening)? What alternatives or adjustments would you recommend for a gentle, effective formula?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Facial Soap for Acne and Sensitive Skin

Based on your goal to create a facial soap for acne and sensitive skin, and considering that wash-off products are not effective for skin brightening, here are some recommendations for your formula:

Whitening Ingredients: Ingredients like Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and AHA (Glycolic Acid) are most effective for brightening and exfoliation when left on the skin. In a wash-off product like soap, they do not have enough contact time to provide significant whitening benefits. Including high percentages can also lead to formulation challenges (like pH stability for L-ascorbic acid) and potential irritation. It is recommended to omit these ingredients from a wash-off cleanser and use them in leave-on products instead if brightening is a primary goal.
Acne Treatment: For acne, Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off) is a highly recommended ingredient for wash-off formulas. It is designed to adhere to the skin and release Salicylic Acid over time, providing effective pore clearing and anti-acne benefits gently. It is more suitable for a wash-off application than White Egg Enzyme (Acnezyme™).
Gentle Cleansing Base: To ensure the soap is suitable for sensitive skin, replacing the current surfactants (Lauryl Glucoside, Coco Wash) with a milder base like Sulfate Free Shampoo Base is advisable. This base is formulated to be gentle and minimize irritation.
Soothing and Hydration: Keeping Glycerin and Alpha Bisabolol in the formula is beneficial. Glycerin provides hydration, and Alpha Bisabolol offers soothing properties, both of which are important for sensitive and acne-prone skin.
Preservation: Phenoxyethanol at 0.5% is a suitable preservative for this type of formula.

In summary: To create a gentle facial soap effective for acne and sensitive skin, focus on using a mild cleansing base like Sulfate Free Shampoo Base and incorporate a wash-off specific acne ingredient like Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (Liquid, Timed-Release, Wash-Off). Omit ingredients primarily intended for leave-on treatments like L-ascorbic acid and AHA for whitening in this wash-off format.