Formulating Gel with Niacinamide, Peptides, and Extracts

Asked by: oatarts On: December 22, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I purchased 10% Niacinamide from another brand, but it doesn't come with a penetration enhancer. I plan to buy Ethoxydiglycol separately to use. Can I mix it into Aloe Vera Gel Lite? If so, can I also add other active ingredients myself? I want benefits for brightening, anti-wrinkle, and anti-irritation. The ingredients and percentages I plan to use are:

  1. Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble) 2%
  2. Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) 2%
  3. Ectoine (from Bio-fermentation) 2%
  4. Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq. Matrixyl 3000) 3%
  5. Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) (1000ppm Solution) 2%
  6. Ethoxydiglycol 2%
  7. Aloe Vera Gel Lite 87%
    Could the R&D team please check if this gel formulation is feasible or if any adjustments are needed? Also, can it be mixed manually? Thank you.

Answer

Subject: Re: Inquiry about compatibility of Aloe Vera Gel Lite + active ingredients

Hello,

Thank you for your inquiry regarding combining ingredients with Aloe Vera Gel Lite.

You've listed several active ingredients and Ethoxydiglycol to add to the gel base. The total percentage you provided is 110%, which is incorrect. The percentages of all ingredients in a formulation must always add up to 100%.

Assuming you want to include Niacinamide at 10% and the other ingredients at the percentages you specified, the formulation should be adjusted so that the Aloe Vera Gel Lite makes up the remaining percentage to reach 100%.

Your proposed ingredients and percentages:

  • Niacinamide: 10%
  • Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble): 2%
  • Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation): 2%
  • Ectoine (from Bio-fermentation): 2%
  • Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq. Matrixyl 3000): 3%
  • Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) (1000ppm Solution): 2%
  • Ethoxydiglycol: 2%
  • Aloe Vera Gel Lite: 87% (This needs adjustment)

Sum of actives + Ethoxydiglycol = 10 + 2 + 2 + 2 + 3 + 2 + 2 = 23%.
To reach 100%, the Aloe Vera Gel Lite percentage should be 100% - 23% = 77%.

Revised Proposed Formulation (Total 100%):

  • Niacinamide: 10%
  • Licorice Extract (Glabridin 4.5%, Water-Soluble): 2%
  • Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation): 2%
  • Ectoine (from Bio-fermentation): 2%
  • Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq. Matrixyl 3000): 3%
  • Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) (1000ppm Solution): 2%
  • Ethoxydiglycol: 2%
  • Aloe Vera Gel Lite: 77%

Regarding compatibility:

  • Most of these ingredients are water-soluble and generally compatible with a water-based gel like Aloe Vera Gel Lite.
  • Ethoxydiglycol is a suitable solvent and penetration enhancer that is miscible with water and will help incorporate ingredients and improve skin absorption.
  • Niacinamide and Copper Peptide can sometimes have compatibility concerns depending on pH, but they are often formulated together successfully. It is recommended to check the final pH of your mixture to ensure it is within a skin-friendly range (typically pH 5-6 is ideal for Niacinamide, and Copper Peptide is stable in a similar range).

Regarding mixing:

  • Manual mixing is possible for this type of formulation.
  • Important: If the Niacinamide you purchased is a powder, it is highly recommended to dissolve it completely in a small amount of purified water or Ethoxydiglycol first before adding it to the Aloe Vera Gel Lite. This will help ensure it dissolves fully and prevents a gritty texture. The other ingredients are likely liquids or solutions and should mix in more easily.
  • Add the dissolved Niacinamide (if applicable), Ethoxydiglycol, and other liquid active ingredients one by one to the Aloe Vera Gel Lite base, stirring gently but thoroughly after each addition until fully incorporated. Avoid excessive whipping which can introduce air bubbles.

Additional recommendations:

  • Always start with a small test batch to check for compatibility, texture, clarity, and stability before making a larger amount.
  • Observe the mixture over a few days or weeks for any changes like separation, cloudiness, or changes in consistency.
  • Store the final product in a clean, airtight container away from light and heat.

This formulation targets your desired benefits (brightening from Niacinamide and Licorice, anti-wrinkle from Peptides, anti-irritation/protection from Ectoine and Ume Extract) and should be feasible with the adjusted base percentage.

We hope this information is helpful!

Sincerely,
[Your Name/Myskinrecipes R&D]