Formulating Lip Tint and Matte Liquid Lipstick for Longevity

Asked by: peony.morris On: September 24, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

I would like guidance on formulating two types of lip products using ingredients available from your company:

  1. Lip Tint (similar to Etude): I need a formula and method to create a lip tint with a good staining effect and longevity.
  2. Matte Liquid Lipstick (similar to NYX): I need a formula and method to create a matte liquid lipstick that is transfer-resistant and long-lasting.

I am particularly interested in how to achieve good color adhesion in an oil/silicone base, potentially using ingredients like Hectorite Oil Gel and EASYMIX™ COLOR as suggested previously.

Answer

Lip Tint (Etude Style)

Lip tints typically have a watery or gel-like texture and provide a staining effect on the lips. To achieve this, you'll need a water base, water-soluble colorants that stain, a gelling agent to create the desired texture, and potentially a film former for enhanced longevity.

Recommended Ingredients:

  • Water Phase: Purified Water
  • Gelling Agent:
    • Aristoflex AVC (Product ID: 7446): A powder that forms a clear gel in water and can help stabilize the formula.
    • AnyGel™ (Product ID: 1282): Another option for creating a gel texture in water-based formulas.
  • Colorants (Water-Soluble Staining Dyes):
  • Film Former (for Longevity):
  • Preservative: To prevent microbial growth in the water-based formula.

Basic Guide for Lip Tint:

  1. Prepare the water phase by adding the gelling agent to purified water and mixing until a uniform gel is formed. Follow the recommended usage rate for the chosen gelling agent.
  2. Dissolve the water-soluble staining dyes in a small amount of water before adding them to the main water/gel phase. Add color gradually until the desired shade is achieved.
  3. Add the water-based film former to the mixture and mix well.
  4. Add a suitable preservative according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  5. Mix thoroughly until all ingredients are evenly dispersed and the texture is smooth.

Matte Liquid Lipstick (NYX Style)

Matte liquid lipsticks typically use an oil or silicone base with pigments dispersed within, and they dry down to a transfer-resistant, matte finish, often achieved with volatile carriers and film formers. The staff's suggestion of Hectorite Oil Gel, EASYMIX™ COLOR, and Mineral Oil is a good starting point.

Recommended Ingredients:

Basic Guide for Matte Liquid Lipstick:

  1. Combine the oil/silicone base ingredients (Mineral Oil, Isododecane).
  2. Add the chosen Hectorite Gel to the oil phase and mix thoroughly. High shear mixing (like using a homogenizer or high-speed mixer) is often needed to properly activate the Hectorite gel and create a stable suspension for the pigments.
  3. Slowly add the EASYMIX™ pigments to the thickened oil phase. Mix very well to ensure the pigments are fully dispersed and there are no streaks or particles. Adjust pigment concentration to achieve the desired color intensity (typically 10-30% as suggested by staff, but can vary).
  4. Add the Silicone Film and any other desired emollients or fillers to the mixture and mix until uniform.
  5. Add a suitable preservative if necessary (depending on the formula composition and potential for water contamination).
  6. Mix thoroughly. The final product should be a smooth, liquid consistency that dries down to a matte finish.

Remember to always work in a clean environment and follow good manufacturing practices. It is recommended to start with small batch sizes when developing new formulations.

Tags

Lip Tint Lipstick Matt Finish Long-lasting Staining