Formulating Long-Lasting Liquid Matte Lipstick with Pigment Stability

Asked by: lemonlimo On: October 21, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to create a liquid matte lipstick formulation similar to popular brands, aiming for a creamy, smooth, lightweight, and long-lasting texture. My main concern is preventing pigment settling.

I have a basic idea for the liquid base using:

  • Jojoba Oil
  • Fractionated Coconut Oil
  • Squalene
  • Isododecane
  • Vitamin E Acetate

Could you suggest suitable ingredients and a formulation approach to achieve the desired texture and longevity while ensuring the pigments remain evenly dispersed and do not settle?

Answer

How to Make Long-Lasting Liquid Matte Lipstick

To create a liquid matte lipstick similar to the brands you mentioned, lemonlimo, aiming for a creamy, smooth, lightweight, and long-lasting texture while also preventing pigment settling, you can use ingredients with specific properties as follows:

Essential Key Ingredients

  1. Oils/Esters: These are primary components providing moisture, smoothness, and acting as solvents for pigments.
    • Jojoba Oil (Clear - Deodorized) and Fractionated Coconut Oil are lightweight oils commonly used in lipstick formulas, providing moisture without greasiness.
    • Squalene (Synthetic, For Lip Gloss) helps increase gloss and viscosity (even for a matte finish, a suitable amount of Squalene can improve texture).
    • The LipidSoft range includes various types that offer different textures. LipidSoft™ CC and LipidSoft™ Moist provide softness, lightness, non-greasiness, and good spreadability. LipidSoft™ Matte helps reduce shine and gives a matte feel. LipidSoft™ Disperse specifically aids in pigment dispersion.
  2. Film Formers: These help create a film on the lips, making the lipstick long-lasting and transfer-resistant.
    • Isododecane (Germany) is a volatile solvent that evaporates quickly, helping the lip product dry down and form a film.
    • Silicone Film (Comfort-Wear, Hard, Isododecane Base) is a film former dissolved in Isododecane, suitable for lip products to enhance longevity and comfort.
  3. Pigments: For matte lipstick, use matte pigments such as various Lake Colors (e.g., ReadyMix™ FD&C Yellow No.5 Lake (Oil Based) as an example), which provide intense color without shimmer.
  4. Suspending Agent: This is crucial for preventing pigment settling in liquid lipstick formulas.
    • Hectorite Gel™ (Isododecane Base) is an oil gelling agent specifically designed to suspend pigments, ensuring even distribution throughout the formula without separation or settling.
  5. Texture Enhancers/Matte Finish: These help the lip product apply smoothly and enhance the matte appearance.
    • MatteSilica 5™ (5 Micron) and Sericite Powder (CompactPro™, Matte, Dimethicone Coated) are powders that help absorb oil, provide a smooth feel, and contribute to a matte finish.

Formulation Approach

The user's proposed base formula (Jojoba Oil, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Squalene, Isododecane, Vitamin E Acetate) is a good starting point for the liquid texture. However, you will need to add a pigment suspending agent (like Hectorite Gel™) and ingredients that contribute to the matte finish and long wear (such as Isododecane, Silicone Film, MatteSilica, Sericite Powder), along with using matte pigments (Lake Colors), to achieve a long-lasting liquid creamy matte lipstick where the pigments do not settle.

To create a liquid matte lipstick with a creamy texture, you can start with the oil/ester base mentioned by lemonlimo (Jojoba Oil, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Squalene, Isododecane) and then add other components to achieve the desired properties:

  • Pigment Dispersion: Use matte pigments (Lake Colors) mixed with the oil/ester base and use LipidSoft™ Disperse to help disperse the pigments effectively.
  • Preventing Pigment Settling: Use a suitable amount of Hectorite Gel™ (Isododecane Base) to create a gel structure in the oil phase, which helps suspend the pigments and prevent settling.
  • Adjusting Texture and Matte Finish: Add matte powders like MatteSilica 5™ or Sericite Powder to absorb oil, improve texture, and enhance the matte look.
  • Increasing Longevity: Use Isododecane as part of the solvent base and add Silicone Film (Comfort-Wear, Hard, Isododecane Base) to help form a durable film.

The base formula you provided, lemonlimo, is a good starting point for the liquid texture. However, you will need to add a pigment suspending agent (like Hectorite Gel™) and ingredients that contribute to the matte finish and long wear (such as Isododecane, Silicone Film, MatteSilica, Sericite Powder), along with using matte pigments (Lake Colors), to achieve a long-lasting liquid creamy matte lipstick where the pigments do not settle.