Formulating Low-Viscosity Essence/Mist with Actives

Asked by: insawang.ch On: September 12, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating a low-viscosity oil-in-water product, similar to a watery essence or body mist.

The base consists of approximately:

  • 80% water
  • 10% mineral oil

I would like to know about incorporating the following ingredients and the appropriate emulsifier:

  1. Emulsifier for this type of O/W formula.
  2. Sym-White (Phenylethyl Resorcinol)
  3. Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  4. Sodium Lactate or Sodium Lactate Plus
  5. Is a penetration enhancer necessary?
  6. Can Papaya Enzyme (Papain) be included?

Answer

Based on your requirements for a low-viscosity oil-in-water formula (like a watery essence or body mist) with approximately 80% water and 10% mineral oil, here are the recommendations:

  • Emulsifier: Light Lotion Maker (Glyceryl Oleate Citrate) is recommended to emulsify the oil and water phases.
  • Sym White (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) and Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): These can be included in your formula. You can add them at the end of the mixing process.
  • Sodium Lactate / Sodium Lactate Plus: These ingredients are quite viscous. While they can be used, they might negatively impact the desired liquid, sprayable consistency. If you choose to include them, use a very low percentage.
  • Penetration Enhancer: Adding a penetration enhancer is optional. Your formula will still absorb into the skin without it, but a penetration enhancer can help improve the absorption rate.
  • Papaya Enzyme (Papain): This ingredient is not suitable for this type of water-based liquid formula. Papaya Enzyme has stability issues when dissolved in water for extended periods and loses its effectiveness over time. It is better suited for powder formulations that are mixed with water immediately before use.

Please note that specific usage percentages for ingredients like Sym White, Vitamin B3, and Sodium Lactate/Plus would depend on the desired effect and product guidelines, but the staff response indicates flexibility for Sym White and B3, and suggests low percentages for Sodium Lactate/Plus if used at all due to viscosity. The recommended emulsifier is Light Lotion Maker.