Formulating Makeup Cleansing Water: Glycols and Surfactant Ratios

Asked by: arinnisa.b On: November 28, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Regarding the formulation of makeup cleansing water:

  1. Is it necessary to use Propylene Glycol or Butylene Glycol in makeup cleansing water? I understand they don't provide hydration, but are they essential for makeup removal?
  2. Can I formulate makeup cleansing water using only these three ingredients?
    • PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides 5%
    • PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 5%
    • Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
    • And the rest Water
  3. Is the following formulation also possible?
    • PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides 10%
    • Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
    • And the rest Water
  4. What about this formulation?
    • PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides 10%
    • PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 10%
    • Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
    • And the rest Water

Answer

Dear khun arinnisa.b,

Regarding your questions about formulating makeup cleansing water:

  • Propylene Glycol: Propylene Glycol or Butylene Glycol in makeup cleansing water helps to increase the formulation's ability to remove makeup, rather than providing hydration. However, it is not strictly necessary, as formulations without these glycols can still be efficient.
  • Formulation 1 (5% PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, 5% PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, 0.5% Phenoxyethanol, Water): Yes, this formulation is possible. Please note that PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Coco Wash) can sometimes produce bubbles, which some users prefer to avoid. Some formulators choose to exclude it and increase the percentage of PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (MakeUp-Wash) instead. PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate is often included in commercial products due to its lower cost compared to PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides.
  • Formulation 2 (10% PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, 0.5% Phenoxyethanol, Water): This formulation is also possible and would likely offer better makeup removal performance and skin-feel compared to Formulation 1. However, it will have a significantly higher cost due to the increased amount of PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides.
  • Formulation 3 (10% PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, 10% PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, 0.5% Phenoxyethanol, Water): This is a viable formulation, but it contains a high level of surfactants. This high concentration might cause a 'drag' feeling on the skin during use. Additionally, using an excessive amount of surfactant does not always lead to better cleaning results.

Hope this information is helpful!

Thank you,
Staff - MySkinRecipes