Achieving a Matte, Long-Lasting Liquid Lip Formula

To create a liquid lipstick or gloss with a matte, dry feel that is long-lasting and not sticky, you can adjust your formula by focusing on specific types of ingredients:

Reducing Stickiness and Achieving a Dry Feel

Your current formula includes Isododecane, waxes, and likely an Oil Film for transfer resistance. Oil Films, such as Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene, can sometimes feel sticky, especially at higher concentrations.

To reduce stickiness and achieve a faster-drying, drier feel:

• Increase Volatile Solvents: Increase the proportion of volatile solvents like Isododecane or Isohexadecane. These evaporate quickly after application, leaving behind the film and pigments without a heavy or sticky feel.
• Choose the Right Film Former: Instead of or in combination with Oil Film, consider using Silicone Films. These create a durable, transfer-resistant layer. For a less sticky feel than Oil Film, Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft) is a good option. For maximum longevity and a very dry feel, you might explore harder silicone film types like Silicone Film (Very Long-Wear, Hard, Cyclopentasiloxane Base) or powder forms like Silicone Film (Powder, Hard Film, Comfort-Wear).
• Incorporate Matte Silicone Gels: Silicone Gels specifically designed for a matte finish, such as Silicone Gel (High Matte, Dimethicone Base), can help absorb oil and provide a smooth, matte appearance without the stickiness.

Mattifying Agents: Matte Silica vs. Silk Mica Powder

You asked about Matte Silica and Silk Mica Powder for mattifying. As previously advised:

• Silk Mica Powder (like Mica Powder (20 Micron, Methicone Coated)) is excellent for providing coverage and can contribute to a matte look while helping the product adhere well to the skin. It is suitable for use in lip formulas where a durable film is desired.
• Matte Silica (like MatteSilica 5™) is very effective at absorbing oil and providing a matte finish and slip. However, it can interfere with the formation of a continuous film, potentially reducing the long-lasting or transfer-resistant properties of the lipstick. For a long-wearing liquid lip that forms a film, Silk Mica Powder is generally a better choice for coverage and contributing to the matte effect without disrupting the film.

Addressing Color Drop and Pigment Dispersion

You observed that adding Titanium Dioxide makes your colors appear lighter, and EasyMix black color doesn't disperse well.

• Titanium Dioxide: Titanium Dioxide is a white pigment used for coverage and lightening. It will naturally lighten any color it's mixed with. To achieve vibrant, intense colors without lightening, reduce or eliminate Titanium Dioxide from your colored formulas unless you specifically intend to create a lighter shade.
• Pigment Dispersion: EasyMix colors may require significant effort to disperse evenly, leading to speckling or poor color payoff. Using ReadyMix colors (such as ReadyMix™ Iron Oxides Red) is highly recommended. These pigments are pre-dispersed in a base, making them much easier to incorporate smoothly into your formula, resulting in consistent, intense color without the need for extensive grinding or high-shear mixing.

General Formulation Tips for Matte Liquid Lip

To achieve a matte, fast-drying, long-lasting liquid lip with good color payoff:

1. Solvent Base: Use a high percentage of a volatile solvent like Isododecane as the primary base.
2. Film Former: Include a suitable Silicone Film (e.g., Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft) or a harder film type) to create the transfer-resistant layer.
3. Mattifying/Texturizing: Add a Matte Silicone Gel (e.g., Silicone Gel (High Matte, Dimethicone Base)) and/or Silk Mica Powder for mattifying, coverage, and texture.
4. Waxes: Use a minimal amount of wax (like Microcrystalline Wax) primarily for structure, avoiding excessive amounts that can feel heavy or oily.
5. Colorants: Use ReadyMix colors for vibrant, well-dispersed pigments. Adjust the percentage based on desired color intensity (you might need a higher percentage than with EasyMix due to the pre-dispersed nature, but the result will be smoother and more intense). Avoid Titanium Dioxide unless a lighter shade is needed.
6. Oils/Emollients: Keep non-volatile oils (like Castor Oil) to a minimum to ensure a dry finish.

By adjusting the ratios of these components, particularly increasing volatile solvents and using appropriate silicone films and matte silicone gels, you can achieve the matte, dry, long-lasting finish you desire, while ReadyMix colors will solve your pigment dispersion issues.