Formulating Natural Creamy Eyeshadow for Long-Wear and Anti-Creasing

Question

Hi there.
I would like to make a creamy eye shadow. It should all be of natural origin. It is important that it doesn't crease and that it can last a long time on the eye lid. I
have tried making this (among others) but it's not really there:

Ingredient	%
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride	21%
C10-18 Triglyceride	10%
Mica (77019), Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax	10%
Iron oxide	8%
Magnesium Myristate	3%
Carnauba Wax	4%
Silica Dimethyl Silylate	4.00%
silica/kiesel	3.00%
Cetiol Ultimate	36%
E-vita	0.50%

Answer 1

To create a creamy eyeshadow that is natural, long-lasting, and non-creasing, we need to address the balance between mobile oils and "fixing" agents. Your current formula is very rich in emollients, which causes the product to migrate into the eyelid folds (creasing) as the skin warms up.

Ingredient Resolution & Classification

Based on your requested ingredients, here is their status in our catalog:

Requested Ingredient	Status	MySkinRecipes Product / Replacement
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride	Found	Fractionated Coconut Oil
C10-18 Triglyceride	Found	Melting Butter Medium
Mica (77019)	Not Found	Silk Mica (High purity cosmetic mica)
Carnauba Wax	Found	Carnauba Wax (Flake)
Iron oxide	Not Found	Iron Oxides (EasyMix™) (Dispersible pigments)
Magnesium Myristate	Found	Magnesium Myristate (For Make-up)
Silica Dimethyl Silylate	Found	Oil-Fix™ O
silica/kiesel	Not Found	MatteSilica 5™ (Spherical silica for oil absorption)
Cetiol Ultimate	Found	LipidSoft™ Cyclo
E-vita	Found	Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)

Why the Current Formula Creases

High Oil Content: You have a high percentage of non-volatile oils (Fractionated Coconut Oil and Melting Butter Medium). Even after the volatile LipidSoft™ Cyclo evaporates, a thick oily film remains, which is prone to sliding.
Lack of Film Formers: Natural waxes like Carnauba provide structure but do not "lock" the pigment onto the skin like a film-forming resin does.
Low Powder-to-Oil Ratio: For a non-creasing finish, the "dry" part of the formula (powders and pigments) needs to be higher to absorb excess sebum and oil.

Suggested Improvements

Add a Film Former: To achieve long-wear without silicones, use Film-Fix™ (CCT Base). This provides the "grip" needed to prevent creasing.
Increase Adhesion: Increase Magnesium Myristate to help the powder stick to the skin.
Boost Oil Absorption: Use MatteSilica 5™ to soak up oils throughout the day.
Optimize the "Set": Increase Oil-Fix™ O to create a stronger gel network that holds pigments in place.

Revised Formula Suggestion (Natural Origin Focus)

Phase	Ingredient	%	Function
A	LipidSoft™ Cyclo	30.0%	Volatile carrier (evaporates for "set")
A	Fractionated Coconut Oil	10.0%	Light emollient
A	Melting Butter Medium	5.0%	Texture and skin-melt feel
A	Film-Fix™ (CCT Base)	10.0%	Long-wear film former
A	Carnauba Wax (Flake)	5.0%	Hardness and structure
B	Oil-Fix™ O	6.0%	Gelling agent / Anti-crease
B	Silk Mica	15.0%	Base filler / Shimmer
B	Iron Oxides (EasyMix™)	10.0%	Pigment
B	Magnesium Myristate	5.0%	Adhesion (skin cling)
B	MatteSilica 5™	3.5%	Oil absorption
C	Vitamin E	0.5%	Antioxidant

Mixing Instructions:

Heat Phase A to 80-85°C until the wax and butter are completely melted.
Add Phase B powders to Phase A. Use a high-shear mixer (if available) or stir very thoroughly to ensure pigments and Oil-Fix™ O are fully dispersed without clumps.
Cool down to 50°C, add Phase C, and pour into containers immediately before it sets.

You can browse more natural ingredients in the Cosmetics > Natural category.