Formulating Water-Based Serum with Oil and Water Soluble Actives

Asked by: whalelanding On: June 01, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to use MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine) in a formula with Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) and GlucoBright™ (Acetyl glucosamine). Based on the solubility information, MSH White™ is oil-soluble, while Safe-B3™ and GlucoBright™ are water-soluble. My formula is water-based. How can I incorporate MSH White™ into this water-based formula? Please also suggest the mixing steps. Regarding penetration enhancers, can I use only Laurocapram (Water Soluble) to achieve the desired effect from MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine)? Or do I need to include Laurocapram (Oil Soluble) as well? Alternatively, is Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) recommended? I prefer not to use DMI due to its smell, even with odor reducers. Are there any other penetration enhancers you can recommend, or is DMI necessary for this formula?

Answer

Incorporating MSH White™ in a Water-Based Formula

You're looking to combine MSH White™ (oil-soluble) with Safe-B3™ and GlucoBright™ (water-soluble) in a water-based formula. This presents a solubility challenge for MSH White™.

How to Incorporate MSH White™

Since MSH White™ is oil-soluble, it cannot be directly dissolved in water. You need to dissolve it in a suitable oil or solvent phase first, using heat (around 80°C) until it is clear. This oil/solvent phase then needs to be incorporated into your water phase.

Penetration Enhancers

  • Laurocapram (Water Soluble): This is suitable for enhancing the penetration of water-soluble ingredients like Safe-B3™ and GlucoBright™. It will not help with MSH White™.
  • Laurocapram (Oil Soluble): This is designed for oil-soluble ingredients. Using this would typically require formulating an emulsion with a significant oil phase, which might not align with a purely water-based formula goal.
  • Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): DMI is a versatile solvent that can dissolve in water and various oils/solvents. It can help dissolve MSH White™ and enhance the penetration of both oil and water-soluble actives, including Niacinamide (Safe-B3™). While effective, you mentioned disliking its smell. If you can manage the odor (e.g., with a masking agent), DMI is a strong option for bridging the solubility gap and enhancing penetration of all three ingredients in a water-based system.

Recommended Approach for a Water-Based Formula

To successfully incorporate MSH White™ into your water-based formula alongside Safe-B3™ and GlucoBright™, while also considering penetration enhancement:

  1. Dissolve MSH White™: Dissolve MSH White™ in a small amount of a suitable solvent that is miscible with water, such as Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) or a polysorbate (like Polysorbate 20 or 80), using heat (around 80°C) until fully dissolved and clear.
  2. Prepare Water Phase: Dissolve Safe-B3™ and GlucoBright™ in your water phase. You can also add Laurocapram (Water Soluble) to this phase if desired for the water-soluble actives.
  3. Combine Phases: Slowly add the heated MSH White™/solvent mixture to the water phase while mixing. Depending on the amount of solvent/oil used, you might need a small amount of emulsifier to ensure a stable dispersion or a very fine emulsion.
  4. Cooling and Final Additions: Cool the mixture and add any remaining ingredients, such as preservatives, fragrance (if needed to mask DMI smell), etc.

This method allows the oil-soluble MSH White™ to be dispersed within the water-based system. DMI is particularly useful here as it acts as both a solvent for MSH White™ and a penetration enhancer for all ingredients, but the smell needs to be addressed. If avoiding DMI, using a polysorbate to dissolve MSH White™ and emulsifying it into the water phase is an alternative, though penetration enhancement for MSH White™ might be less pronounced without a dedicated oil-soluble enhancer or DMI.

Mixing Steps Summary

  1. Heat a small amount of DMI or suitable solvent/oil to ~80°C and dissolve MSH White™ until clear.
  2. In a separate container, dissolve Safe-B3™ and GlucoBright™ in the water phase. Add Laurocapram (Water Soluble) here if using.
  3. Slowly add the heated MSH White™ mixture to the water phase with continuous mixing. If needed, add a small amount of emulsifier.
  4. Cool the mixture.
  5. Add remaining ingredients (preservative, fragrance, etc.).