Formulating with High Concentration Vitamin C (25%)

Asked by: moo_wilaija On: March 23, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am interested in formulating a product with a high concentration of Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid), similar to the Paula's Choice product containing 25%.

  • Is it possible to formulate with such a high concentration (25%) of Vitamin C?
  • Is this concentration commonly used in cosmetic products?
  • How can I achieve a gel-based texture that is not sticky, similar to the Paula's Choice product, which uses a large amount of silicone (like cyclomethicone)?
  • What are the considerations regarding the effectiveness and potential for skin irritation when using Vitamin C at 20-25% concentration?
  • What ingredients are recommended to create a similar gel-based formula with high concentration Vitamin C? (The answer suggests Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine) and Silicone Gel)

Answer

High Concentration Vitamin C in Formulations

Regarding your question about the Paula's Choice product containing 25% Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) and whether such a concentration is achievable and commonly used, the information provided confirms that it is indeed possible.

As the staff explained, formulating with high concentrations of Vitamin C, like 25%, can lead to a sticky texture. However, this can be effectively managed by incorporating a significant amount of silicone into the formula, similar to the approach used in the Paula's Choice product which contains a large quantity of cyclomethicone.

While 25% Vitamin C is achievable, it's important to note the points raised about its effectiveness and potential for irritation:

  • Studies show that 20% Vitamin C is more effective than 15%, but the increase in efficacy is limited when going from 20% to 25%.
  • Due to its acidic nature, high concentrations (20-25%) of Ascorbic Acid can cause skin irritation. For this reason, products with such high levels are often recommended for spot treatment rather than application across the entire face.

If you are interested in creating a similar gel-based formula with high concentration Vitamin C, the staff suggested using Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine) mixed into a Silicone Gel base. Both of these ingredients are available on this site.

This approach allows for the creation of a texture similar to the product you inquired about, while enabling you to work with a high concentration of effective L-Ascorbic Acid.