Formulating with High Oil and Alcohol Content: Emulsifier and Thickener Selection

Asked by: sroydondon On: November 03, 2019 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

I have a base formulation with the following composition:

  • Oil: 50%
  • Alcohol: 40%
  • Remaining: 10%

I have two questions regarding this base:

  1. Which ingredient is suitable for emulsifying or solubilizing this base?
  2. Which ingredient is suitable for creating a cream or gel texture?

Answer

Formulation Guidance for 50% Oil, 40% Alcohol Base

For a formulation containing a high percentage of oil (50%) and alcohol (40%), selecting suitable ingredients for emulsification/solubilization and thickening/gelling is crucial for stability and texture.

1. Emulsifier or Solubilizer

Given the high oil and alcohol content, a solubilizer or an emulsifier capable of handling both phases is needed. Consider these options:

  • C12-15 Pareth-12: This is a non-ionic O/W emulsifier and solubilizer that can dissolve in both water and oil. Its properties make it a good candidate for solubilizing the oil phase within a system containing significant alcohol and the remaining water.
  • Oil Blender™ (Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate): While primarily a water-in-oil emulsifier and oil blender, it can be useful for ensuring the oil phase is well-integrated, especially in formulations with low water content. It requires heat for mixing.

Choosing the best option depends on the desired final product type (emulsion or clear solution) and extensive testing is recommended due to the challenging nature of the base.

2. Thickener or Gelling Agent

To create a cream or gel texture in a system with high alcohol, specific gelling agents are required. Traditional water-based thickeners may not perform well with high alcohol content.

Consider these gelling agents known for their tolerance or suitability in alcohol-containing systems:

  • Carbomer U21 (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer): This Carbomer type is specifically noted for its ability to create clear gels in formulations with a high proportion of ethyl alcohol. It does not require heat but needs neutralization (e.g., with AMP) to form a gel.
  • Carbomer 974 (Carbomer): Suitable for creating gels in formulas with low water content and containing glycols or other solvents like alcohol. It also requires neutralization.
  • Aristoflex AVC (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer): This can form a gel in water and help stabilize some oil (up to 15-20%). While it might contribute to thickening the water phase, its ability to handle 50% oil needs careful evaluation.
  • ThixoGel™ (Polyurethane-62): A water gelling agent with good resistance to electrolytes and a wide pH range. It creates a thixotropic gel texture. Compatibility with 40% alcohol should be tested.
  • AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum): Another water gelling agent resistant to electrolytes, providing a non-greasy gel texture. Like ThixoGel™, its performance at 40% alcohol needs verification.

For a high alcohol content, Carbomer U21 or Carbomer 974 are likely the most suitable choices for creating a stable gel or thickened cream texture. The usage rate for thickeners will depend on the desired viscosity.

Formulating with high oil and alcohol requires careful selection and testing of ingredients to ensure stability and achieve the desired texture.

Answer Update
Updated Review: May 2026

This section was added after reviewing the original answer against current product availability and formulation knowledge at the stated point in time.

Update as of 2026-05-24: This formula should be treated as a difficult high-oil/high-alcohol system, not a normal oil-in-water cream or gel. With 50% oil and 40% alcohol, only about 10% remains for water/other ingredients, so the oil will generally need to be emulsified, compatibilized, or structured rather than simply “dissolved.” Stability and clarity cannot be predicted without lab testing.

C12-15 Pareth-12 can still be trialed as an oil-in-water emulsifier/solubilizer, but it should not be expected to fully solubilize 50% oil or guarantee a clear, stable result. Oil Blender™ may help blend the oil phase or support a water-in-oil style system, but it should not be relied on as the sole primary emulsifier for this difficult base.

For texture building, Carbomer U21 and Carbomer 974 remain the most defensible first trials from the listed options for a high-alcohol gel/cream direction, but they must be properly dispersed and neutralized with a suitable alkali; pH should be checked after neutralization. Aristoflex AVC, ThixoGel™, and AnyGel™ may help in suitable systems, but their performance may be limited when the aqueous/remaining phase is only about 10%. The exact oil type, alcohol type, target appearance (clear gel vs. opaque cream), final pH, order of addition, and stability testing are critical before finalizing the formula.

References: Harry’s Cosmeticology, 9th ed.; Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, 4th ed.; Schmitt, Analysis of Surfactants, 2nd ed.