Formulation Advice for Glossy/Dewy Cream with Stable Vitamin C and Pore Care

ถามโดย: pacharakup เมื่อ: February 14, 2014 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I want to formulate a product to achieve a glossy/dewy look on the face. I plan to use the following ingredients:

  • Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane
  • Silicone Gel Base (Ultra Clear)
  • Warp Cream Maker
  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)
  • Snail Secretion
  • Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule)
  • Nanowhite

Could you please provide advice on how to achieve the glossy/dewy effect using these ingredients? Additionally, I would like recommendations for:

  1. A stable form of Vitamin C that can be incorporated into this formula.
  2. Ingredients that can help with pore tightening in this formulation.

คำตอบ

Formulation Advice for Glossy Cream

Ingredient Suitability

Based on your list and the previous replies, the core ingredients you've chosen are suitable for creating a silicone-based cream that can give a glossy finish:

  • Cyclomethicone / Cyclopentasiloxane (e.g., Cyclopentasiloxane): These are lightweight silicones that provide a smooth, silky feel and help other ingredients spread easily. They form the base of your silicone phase.
  • Silicone Gel Base (Ultra Clear) (e.g., Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky)): This enhances the texture, making it soft, light, and non-sticky, while also helping to blur imperfections and contribute to a smooth look. It's also excellent for dispersing powders.
  • Warp Cream Maker (e.g., Warp Cream Maker™): This is a water-in-oil (or water-in-silicone) emulsifier that is essential for combining your water-soluble ingredients with the silicone/oil base to create a stable cream texture. The previous reply confirmed this is a correct choice for this type of formula.

Other ingredients you listed are also beneficial for skin health and can be incorporated into this type of cream:

  • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) (e.g., Safe-B3™): A great multi-tasker. It helps reduce redness, improves skin barrier function, and can help regulate oil production, which is relevant for pore appearance.
  • Snail Secretion (e.g., Snail Secretion): Known for its moisturizing, soothing, and regenerative properties. It adds hydration and can help improve skin texture.
  • Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule) (e.g., Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule, 800daltons)): Provides deep hydration due to its small molecular size, which can penetrate the skin effectively. You may need an electrolyte-resistant thickener in the water phase when using nano hyaluronic acid.
  • Nanowhite: While not specifically searched in the tool calls, ingredients aimed at whitening or brightening are common in skincare and can be included if compatible with the overall formula.

To achieve the "glossy" or "dewy" effect, as discussed previously, you would typically add ingredients like:

  • Mica Powder (e.g., Mica Powder (20 Micron, Methicone Coated)): Provides a subtle shimmer and can help blur imperfections.
  • Bismuth Oxychloride (e.g., MakeGlow™ Powder (Bismuth Oxychloride)): Gives a distinct pearlescent or "glowy" finish. Note that Bismuth Oxychloride may not be suitable for sensitive or oily skin as it can cause irritation or look too greasy on oily skin.

Your initial list of ingredients is a good foundation for a glossy-finish cream, and the chosen emulsifier and silicone base are appropriate for this type of formulation.

Stable Vitamin C

You asked about stable Vitamin C options. Standard L-Ascorbic Acid is highly unstable in water. For better stability in a cream formulation, especially one containing water, you should use a stabilized derivative. Based on the search results, several stable forms are available:

  • Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) (e.g., Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C)): A water-soluble, stable form that requires careful pH adjustment (pH 6.5-6.8) for optimal stability and efficacy.
  • Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) (e.g., Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C SAP)) and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) (e.g., Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate): These are also water-soluble and highly stable, typically requiring a pH range of 7-9.
  • Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (Perfect-C™) (e.g., Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)): This is an oil-soluble form of Vitamin C that is highly stable and absorbs well into the skin.

Given that your formula uses a significant silicone/oil phase with a water-in-silicone emulsifier (Warp Cream Maker), an oil-soluble Vitamin C like Perfect-C™ might be easier to incorporate into the oil/silicone phase and maintain stability. If you prefer a water-soluble form, Ascorbyl Glucoside, SAP, or MAP can be used in the water phase, but you must ensure the final formula pH is within their stable range and consider potential interactions with other ingredients.

Pore Tightening Ingredients

Enlarged pores can be caused by various factors like excess oil, clogged pores, or loss of elasticity. Addressing the root cause is key. Your formula already includes Niacinamide (e.g., Safe-B3™), which is excellent for reducing oiliness and improving the appearance of pores.

Other ingredients that can help with pore appearance include:

  • Salicylic Acid (BHA) (e.g., Salicylic Acid (BHA)): This is oil-soluble and can penetrate into pores to help exfoliate dead skin cells and excess oil, making pores appear smaller, especially if the cause is clogged pores or oiliness.
  • Glycolic Acid (AHA) (e.g., Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) 100% Powder)): An alpha hydroxy acid that exfoliates the skin surface, improving texture and potentially making pores less noticeable. AHAs are water-soluble and require a low pH for efficacy, which might be challenging to formulate with other ingredients.

Consider adding Salicylic Acid if oiliness and clogged pores are the primary concern.

In summary, your initial ingredient list is a solid starting point for a glossy cream. You can enhance it by choosing a stable Vitamin C form (Perfect-C™ is a good option for a silicone base) and adding ingredients like Mica or Bismuth Oxychloride for the desired gloss effect. For pore tightening, Niacinamide is already helpful, and adding Salicylic Acid can further address issues related to oiliness and clogged pores.

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
เครื่องสำอาง
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
เครื่องสำอาง
Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone)
Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone)
เครื่องสำอาง
Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky)
Silicone Gel (Ultra Clear, Super Silky)
เครื่องสำอาง
Snail Secretion
Snail Secretion
เครื่องสำอาง
Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C)
Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C)
เครื่องสำอาง
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)
Warp Cream Maker™ (e.q. Nikkomulese wo)
เครื่องสำอาง
MakeGlow™ Powder (Bismuth Oxychloride)
MakeGlow™ Powder (Bismuth Oxychloride)
เครื่องสำอาง
Mica Powder (20 Micron, Methicone Coated)
Mica Powder (20 Micron, Methicone Coated)
เครื่องสำอาง
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)
Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate)
เครื่องสำอาง
Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) Powder)
Glycopure™ (Glycolic Acid (AHA) Powder)
เครื่องสำอาง
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
เครื่องสำอาง
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C SAP, e.q. Stay C50)
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C SAP, e.q. Stay C50)
เครื่องสำอาง
Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule, 800daltons)
Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule, 800daltons)
เครื่องสำอาง