Formulation Advice: Mixing 10 Actives into Cream Base and Hair Care Application
Question
I plan to mix the following 10 active ingredients into the Absolue Soft Cream Base (compare to Lancome) - 500 gram. Please advise on the recommended mixing ratios, compatibility, and potential texture issues when combining these ingredients:
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder)
- Pure-Adenosine™
- WhiteCumin™ 2x (สารสกัดขมิ้น, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane)
- Astaxanthin (10% Algae Extract, Oil)
- Bakuchiol-Eco ™ (Natural Retinol, 98% Pure, India)
- Horse Placenta
- Bifida Repair Complex™ (Bifida Ferment Lysate, High Conc)
- S-Proteoglycan™ Liquid (Salmon Cartilage Protein 10000ppm)
- HyaCap™ Salmon Roe
- SerpinBlock™ (Piperidinepropionic acid)
Additionally, which of these listed ingredients can also be incorporated into a hair root serum/spray formulation?
Answer
Analysis of Your Shopping Cart and Formulation Advice
Thank you for listing the ingredients. You have selected a powerful combination of active ingredients to address your concerns (wrinkles, dark spots, dullness, and barrier repair).
1. Compatibility and Mixing Recommendations
It is strongly recommended to use the Absolue Soft Cream Base (ID: 10458) for mixing.
- Mixing into Existing Products (Cerave, Sunscreen, Vitamin E Cream): It is not recommended to mix these high-concentration active ingredients (especially powders and oils) into finished commercial products.
- Risk: Adding new ingredients can destabilize the existing emulsion, break the preservative system, or change the pH, leading to product separation, reduced effectiveness, or skin irritation.
- Best Practice: The Absolue Soft Cream Base (ID: 10458) is designed for easy incorporation of active ingredients, ensuring stability and optimal texture.
2. Ingredient Analysis, Redundancy, and Recommended Ratios
Your selection targets your skin concerns effectively. The ingredients are generally complementary, not redundant, as they work through different mechanisms.
| Ingredient | Primary Function | Recommended Ratio (in Cream Base) | Notes & Redundancy Check |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Panthenol (Powder) (ID: 111) | Soothing, Moisturizing, Barrier Repair | 0.5% - 2% | Excellent for sensitive/combination skin. Must be dissolved in a small amount of water before mixing. |
| 2. Pure-Adenosine™ (ID: 1925) | Anti-aging, Wrinkle Reduction | 0.1% - 0.5% | Targets wrinkles and skin energy. Water-soluble. Dissolve before mixing. |
| 3. WhiteCumin™ 2x (ID: 721) | Whitening, Anti-Dark Spot | 0.1% - 1% | Strong ingredient for melasma and dark spots. |
| 4. Astaxanthin (Oil) (ID: 10823) | Powerful Antioxidant, Anti-aging | 0.1% - 0.5% | Protects against UV damage (a cause of dark spots). Oil-soluble. Will impart a reddish/orange color. |
| 5. Bakuchiol-Eco™ (Oil) (ID: 9791) | Natural Retinol, Anti-aging | 0.5% - 1% | Targets wrinkles and minor acne. A gentle alternative to traditional retinol. Oil-soluble. |
| 6. Horse Placenta (ID: 2309) | Anti-aging, Regeneration | 1% - 5% | Works well with other anti-aging ingredients. |
| 7. Bifida Repair Complex™ (ID: 35555) | Probiotic, Barrier Repair | 1% - 5% | Crucial for combination skin to balance the microbiome and reduce sensitivity. |
| 8. S-Proteoglycan™ Liquid (ID: 8226) | Moisturizing, Elasticity | 1% - 5% | Provides deep hydration and firmness. |
| 9. HyaCap™ Salmon Roe (ID: 125564) | Hydration, Anti-aging | 1% - 5% | Encapsulated for sustained hydration. |
| 10. SerpinBlock™ (ID: 126132) | Anti-aging, Firming | 0.1% - 1% | Targets expression lines. |
Redundancy Check:
- You have multiple anti-aging ingredients (Adenosine, Bakuchiol, Placenta, Proteoglycan, HyaCap, SerpinBlock). While they are complementary, using all of them at once might be costly. For a balanced formula, prioritize Bakuchiol (retinol-like), Adenosine (energy), Bifida (barrier), and S-Proteoglycan/HyaCap (hydration).
3. Texture Management
To prevent the cream from becoming too thick or too thin:
- Dissolve Powders First: Dissolve Panthenol and Pure-Adenosine™ in a minimal amount of distilled water or a solvent (like Propylene Glycol) before adding them to the cream base. This prevents a gritty texture.
- Control Liquid Volume: The liquid ingredients (Placenta, Bifida, Proteoglycan, HyaCap, SerpinBlock) are mostly water-based. Keep the total addition of all liquid actives to under 15% of the final cream weight (e.g., for 100g of base, add no more than 15g of total liquids). Exceeding this can break the emulsion and make the cream too thin.
- Control Oil Volume: The oil-soluble ingredients (Astaxanthin and Bakuchiol) should be kept to a combined total of under 2% to maintain the base's texture and absorption rate.
4. Hair Care Application
Several items in your cart are excellent for a hair root serum or spray:
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) (ID: 111): Moisturizes the scalp and strengthens hair.
- Pure-Adenosine™ (ID: 1925): Known to stimulate hair growth and improve density.
- Horse Placenta (ID: 2309): Contains growth factors that support hair follicle health.
- Bifida Repair Complex™ (ID: 35555): Helps balance the scalp's microbiome, reducing irritation and promoting a healthy environment for hair growth.
Recommended Hair Formula Ratio: Mix these ingredients into a simple, water-based serum or spray base (e.g., using a small amount of a solvent like Butylene Glycol and distilled water) at the following rates: Panthenol (1-3%), Adenosine (0.1-0.5%), Horse Placenta (2-5%), Bifida (2-5%).
Related Products Mentioned
Pure-Adenosine™
