Formulation for Oily Skin Serum/Gel with Hydration, Brightening, Lifting using Warp Cream Maker or Gel Base

Asked by: ceres_num On: April 29, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Need to develop a serum/gel formulation for oily skin that focuses on hydration, brightening, and lifting, suitable for use with a facial massager. My previous "ultralight serum" is discontinued, and I was provided with a sample formula using Warp Cream Maker as follows:

ตัวอย่างส่วนประกอบการสร้างเนื้อครีมด้วย Warp Cream Maker™ โดยมี Silicone เป็นหลัก และขั้นตอนการผสม
1.Cyclomethicone 55% (Silicone เป็นหลัก หรือมากกว่า 50% ของสูตร)
2.Silicone Gel 5%
3.Water 20.5%
4.Vitamin B3 Ultra Low Niacin 5%
5.Alpha-Arbutin 2%
6.Pep-Coll 3%
7.Copper Peptide 1.5%
8.Warp Cream Maker™ 8%

A:นำ 3,4,5,6,7 มาผสมรวมกัน จะส่วนผสมละลายเข้ากันทั้งหมด
B:นำ 1,2,8 มาผสมรวมกัน ด้วยการคนจนกว่าจะเข้ากัน (การใช้ความร้อน 70-80องศา จะช่วยให้ Warp Cream Maker ละลายได้เร็วขึ้น)
จากนั้นนำ A+B รวมกัน *โดยค่อยๆทีละนิดเติม A ลงใน B* คนอย่างต่อเนื่อง ประมาณ 3นาที จะได้เนื้อครีม

Please suggest ingredients and formulation approaches that are suitable for this purpose, considering the sample formula provided.

Answer

Formulation Recommendations for Oily Skin with Facial Massager

Regarding the "ultralight serum" you previously used, it appears to be discontinued for direct sale. As suggested in the forum, formulating a similar product yourself using a base like Warp Cream Maker is a viable and potentially more cost-effective option, allowing you to customize the ingredients to your specific needs.

For oily skin, a gel texture is indeed very suitable, as it is lightweight and absorbs quickly without feeling heavy or greasy. Gel and serum textures also work well with automatic facial massagers, providing the necessary slip for smooth movement.

To create a formulation targeting hydration, brightening, and lifting for oily skin, you can incorporate the following active ingredients:

For Hydration

  • Hyaluronic Acid: This is a key ingredient for hydration. Different molecular weights offer different benefits. Small molecules (like Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule)) penetrate deeper for hydration, while larger molecules (like Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) or Hyaluronic Acid (Large Molecule)) provide surface hydration and a slight film-forming effect. Products like 4D Hyaluronic Acid or 8D Hyaluronic Acid combine multiple molecular weights for comprehensive hydration. Alternatively, a ready-to-use base like Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base can simplify formulation.

For Brightening

  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Excellent for oily skin as it helps reduce sebum production, improves skin barrier function, and offers significant brightening benefits by reducing hyperpigmentation. Look for high-purity options like Safe-B3™ or Extreme-B3™.
  • Vitamin C Derivatives: Stable forms of Vitamin C are great for brightening and antioxidant protection. Options like Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G Stabilized Vitamin C), Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, or Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C SAP) are water-soluble and suitable for gel formulations. Be mindful of their specific pH requirements for stability.
  • Alpha Arbutin: Works by inhibiting melanin production to reduce dark spots and even out skin tone. Both the Switzerland grade and China grade are available.
  • Tranexamic Acid: Effective in reducing the appearance of dark spots and melasma. Nano-TXA™ offers enhanced penetration.

For Lifting and Anti-Aging

  • Peptides: Various peptides can help stimulate collagen and elastin production for improved firmness and reduced wrinkles. Consider a blend like Pep®-Max12 (12 Peptides Mixture) or specific peptides like Pep®-Geline, Pep®-Synthe6, or Pep®-Neo.
  • Copper Peptide: Known for its wound healing and collagen-stimulating properties, contributing to skin firmness and reducing the appearance of scars and wrinkles. Options include Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) or a higher concentration version like Copper Tripeptide 10x.

Formulation Base

  • You can use Warp Cream Maker or Warp Cream Maker XL to create a lightweight, quick-absorbing base that feels dry on the skin, suitable for oily types. Follow the mixing instructions carefully, as they require specific blending techniques and conditions (e.g., adding water phase gradually to the oil/silicone phase). These emulsifiers are designed for water-in-oil or water-in-silicone emulsions, which can still result in a light feel depending on the overall formula composition.
  • Alternatively, a simple Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base can serve as a straightforward gel vehicle for your active ingredients.

When formulating, pay close attention to the recommended usage rates, mixing methods, and compatibility notes for each active ingredient (especially pH and temperature sensitivity) to ensure stability and efficacy.