Formulation Guidance for Essence, Serum, and Sleeping Mask with Specific Actives and Texture Goals

Question

Hello, could you please review the following ingredient list? The focus is on skin barrier health, soft/hydrated/bright skin, and acne reduction, with a non-sticky and non-filmy feel upon application. The active ingredients are: Repair Activator powder 1%, PiteraEx 1%, VersaMoist 2%, MOIST24 5%, Yeast Radient 3%, Tranexamic Acid 3%, 4MSK 3%, Zince PCA 1%, totaling 19% actives. I would like to know if this combination is feasible when combined with White Jelly 52% and DI Water 30%. If I want to achieve the following product types with specific textures: 1. Essence: watery, clear, non-filmy texture, used as the first step. 2. Serum: liquid texture, focusing on hydration, non-filmy. 3. Sleeping Mask: cream-gel texture, hydrating, not heavy on the face, non-filmy. Which base (White Jelly, DI Water, and potentially other ingredients) should I use, and at what percentages, when combined with the selected actives, to achieve these desired textures?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formulation Review and Base Suggestions

You have a strong list of active ingredients (19%) targeting skin barrier health, hydration, brightness, and acne, while aiming for a lightweight, non-sticky feel. Your active ingredients include:

Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate)
PiteraEx (Saccharomyces Lysate Extract)
VersaMoist (PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether)
MOIST24 (Glycereth-26)
Yeast Radient (Yeast Radiance™)
Tranexamic Acid
4MSK (Potassium Methoxysalicylate)
Zinc PCA

You asked about combining these with White Jelly (52%) and DI Water (30%). Please note that the total percentage of all ingredients in a formulation must be 100%. Your 19% active ingredients would need to be combined with a base system (including White Jelly, DI Water, and other necessary components like thickeners, preservatives, etc.) that makes up the remaining 81% of the formula.

To achieve the desired textures (Essence, Serum, Sleeping Mask) that are lightweight, non-sticky, and non-filmy, the composition of this 81% base is key. Since most of your actives are water-soluble, a water-based or light emulsion system is suitable.

Here are general suggestions for the base composition within the 81% for each texture:

Essence (Watery, Non-Filmy)

For a light, fast-absorbing essence:

Base Focus: High percentage of DI Water (e.g., 60-70% of the total formula), combined with White Jelly (e.g., 10-15% of the total formula).
Texture: Minimal or very low concentration of a non-tacky, water-soluble thickener to provide a slightly viscous feel without a film.

Serum (Water-Based, Hydrating, Non-Filmy)

For a slightly more viscous but still lightweight serum:

Base Focus: Moderate percentage of DI Water (e.g., 50-60% of the total formula) and White Jelly (e.g., 15-25% of the total formula).
Texture: Use a water-soluble polymer thickener that provides a smooth, non-tacky texture. Humectants like Hyaluronic Acid can also enhance the feel.

Sleeping Mask (Cream-Gel, Hydrating, Non-Heavy, Non-Filmy)

For a hydrating gel-cream that feels comfortable overnight:

Base Focus: Moderate percentage of DI Water (e.g., 40-50% of the total formula) and White Jelly (e.g., 20-30% of the total formula).
Texture: Requires an emulsifier system to create a cream-gel structure. Combine water-soluble thickeners with a small amount of lightweight emollients or esters. The goal is a rich feel that absorbs well without a heavy or sticky film.

Key to Non-Sticky/Non-Filmy Feel:

Careful selection and concentration of thickeners are crucial. Choose polymers known for a smooth, non-tacky feel.
Balance the total amount of humectants in the formula.
If creating a cream-gel, use lightweight, non-greasy emollients.

You will need to experiment with the exact percentages of White Jelly and DI Water within the 81% base, along with appropriate thickeners and other base components, to achieve the precise texture and feel you desire for each product type.