Formulation Guidance for Laureth-23 Emulsifier and Heat-Sensitive Actives

Asked by: fashion-able On: August 04, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

When using Laureth-23 as an emulsifier, what is the correct temperature for dissolving it in the oil phase? Also, when should heat-sensitive ingredients like Alpha Bisabolol and Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol) be added to the formulation?

Answer

Formulation Guidance for Laureth-23 Emulsifier

Regarding the use of Laureth-23 as an emulsifier and the addition of Alpha Bisabolol and Vitamin E:

  • Laureth-23 Dissolution and Mixing: Laureth-23 is a solid emulsifier that requires heating to dissolve properly in the oil phase. The recommended temperature range for dissolving Laureth-23 in the oil phase is 60-70°C, not 40°C. After the Laureth-23 is fully dissolved and the oil phase is clear, you should cool the oil phase down before mixing it with the water phase. It is not necessary for the water phase to be heated to the same initial high temperature as the oil phase.

  • Adding Alpha Bisabolol and Vitamin E: It is recommended to add heat-sensitive ingredients like Alpha Bisabolol and Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol) to the oil phase after it has cooled down, ideally around 40°C, before combining with the water phase. While Vitamin E can withstand temperatures up to 50°C for a short duration (less than 5 minutes), adding it at 40°C is safer to minimize potential degradation. Alpha Bisabolol is also best added at a lower temperature to preserve its quality. Prolonged exposure to high heat can cause these ingredients to degrade.

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