Formulation Questions: Essences, Face Oil, Copper Peptides, and Eyelash Serum
Question
I have several questions regarding cosmetic formulations:
Regarding a skin essence ('น้ำตบผิว') combining Pitera 100% and Repair Activator, is a preservative needed?
For a face oil using Emu Oil, can the following formula be used?
- Emu Oil: 91.9%
- Alpha Tocopherol: 2%
- Tocopheryl Acetate: 0.5%
- Tocotrienols: 1.5%
- Algae Oil: 5%
- Q10: 0.5%
- ROE: 0.1%
Can GHK-Cu be used together with Sodium Copper Chlorophyll and Copper PCA?
Could you please provide a formula for longer eyelashes?
For another skin essence ('น้ำตบผิว'), could you please review the following formula?
- 4D Hyaluron: 5%
- B5: 3%
- B3: 5%
- Gluco Bright: 5%
- DMl: 1.5%
- LYCD: 2%
- Madecassoside-80: 1%
- Snow Algae: 1.5%
- Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
Thank you.
Answer
Formulation Questions Answered
Here are the answers to your formulation questions:
1. Pitera + Repair Activator Skin Essence Preservative
Yes, you do need to add a preservative to your skin essence containing Pitera (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate) and Repair Activator (Bifida Ferment Lysate), especially if you are using versions without built-in preservatives or adding extra water. These fermentation-based ingredients in a water base are prone to microbial growth. A broad-spectrum preservative like Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus) is suitable for this type of product to ensure safety and stability.
2. Emu Oil Face Oil Formula
Your proposed Emu Oil face oil formula includes beneficial oil-soluble ingredients:
- Emu Oil as the base.
- Multiple forms of Vitamin E (Alpha Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocotrienols) for antioxidant protection.
- Q10 (Coenzyme Q10) for antioxidant benefits.
- ROE (Rosemary Oleoresin Extract) to help prevent the oils from going rancid.
- Algae Oil, which can add beneficial fatty acids and compounds.
However, the percentages you provided add up to 101.5%, which is incorrect. The total percentage of all ingredients in a formula must equal 100%. You will need to adjust the percentages, typically by reducing the main base oil (Emu Oil), so the total is 100%. Also, confirm the specific type of Algae Oil you are using.
3. Combining Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu, Sodium Copper Chlorophyll, Copper PCA)
It is possible to combine GHK-Cu, Sodium Copper Chlorophyll, and Copper PCA, as they are all copper-containing ingredients used in skincare. However, you must carefully consider:
- Total Copper Concentration: Ensure the combined amount of elemental copper from all sources is within safe and effective limits to avoid potential irritation or pro-oxidant effects.
- Compatibility and Stability: Check the compatibility of these ingredients with each other and the overall formulation base, especially regarding pH, to maintain stability and efficacy.
- Formulation Benefits: Evaluate if combining all three provides significantly enhanced benefits compared to using one or two at optimal concentrations.
Careful formulation and testing are recommended when combining multiple ingredients with similar active components.
4. Formula for Longer Eyelashes
A formula for longer eyelashes typically focuses on supporting lash follicle health and conditioning the lashes. Key ingredients often include:
- Peptides: Such as Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 or Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, believed to stimulate keratin.
- Vitamins: Like Biotin and Panthenol (Vitamin B5) for strengthening and conditioning.
- Conditioning Agents: Such as Hyaluronic Acid or Glycerin for hydration and flexibility.
- Natural Extracts: Some botanical extracts are traditionally used for hair support.
- Oils: Like Castor Oil, for conditioning.
A basic formula would involve a water or serum base with a peptide, a conditioning agent, a humectant, and a suitable preservative for the eye area.
5. Second Skin Essence Formula Review
Your second skin essence formula includes several beneficial ingredients:
- 4D Hyaluron, B5, and Gluco Bright for hydration and brightening.
- B3 (Niacinamide) for barrier support and other benefits.
- LYCD for potential revitalizing effects.
- Madecassoside-80 for soothing and healing.
- Snow Algae for potential anti-aging benefits.
- Phenoxyethanol SA for necessary preservation.
The combination of ingredients targets hydration, brightening, soothing, and anti-aging concerns, which is suitable for a multi-benefit essence. The inclusion of a preservative is correct. The only ingredient that requires clarification is "DML" - you should identify its full name and recommended usage rate to ensure its suitability and safety in the formula. Assuming "DML" is appropriate, the rest of the formula appears well-composed.
Related Products Mentioned
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol)
Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE)
Coenzyme Q10 (98%, Powder, Oil-Soluble)
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
Snow Algae
Tocotrienols (Oil, 50%, Cosmetics)
Copper PCA
4D Hyaluronic Acid
Emu Oil (China)
Sodium Copper Chlorophyllin Complex